Skip to content
subscribe
Account
SEARCH

Categories

LASTEST

The Precision, Rigor, and Control of Japonisme at J. Mendel

Eliza Jordan

25 September 2015

Synonymous to J. Mendel’s ever-present feminine exuberance is perhaps one of Gilles Mendel’s greatest influences of the season—Japan’s sense of precision, rigor, and control.

For spring/summer 2016, influence of Japanese art, fashion and aesthetics on the West was seen in many of J. Mendel’s casual and outerwear. Flirty, short skirts were asymmetric with slits and pleats, and straight, ankle-skimming skirts made an appearance, too. A new sense of proportion made a name for itself as tunic tops were long, and oversized tees were boxy—a perfect transition to elegant outerwear.

J. Mendel spring/summer 2016

A white mink intarsia cropped vest was paired with an abstract printed drawstring parka. A vivid yagasuri intarsia long mink vest donned high-slit sides, and anorak style drawstrings too. Through a variety of pairings and intricate cuts, fur became sporty, and in the puzzlingly beautiful ways.

As cocktail attire and long evening dresses made way, prints moved from Japanese textiles and wood-block prints to blurred florals and ombré chevrons. Gowns and organza ball skirts proved to be visually energetic, with pops of jonquil yellow, cheery blossom, iris blue, jade, and sweet brushstrokes of grey. To blend the lightness and movement of the material to the model, there were cutouts, dress straps, unique necklines, and stark, restrained bandeau tops galore.

J. Mendel spring/summer 2016

Edge and elegance collided in this collection, too, when a touch of metallic, and a new micro-pleating approach, were seen on a variety of the decadent looks displayed. Metallic rings served as the perfect embroidery for a number of garments, including the silk georgette sleeveless micro-pleated dress, and the asymmetrical silk wrap skirt. To add, Mendel used a new micro-pleating technique to use sheer fabrics in a very structured, yet fluid, type of way.

Regardless of its beautifully contrasting and easy-going method, the perfect J. Mendel woman, is, according to the designer, just about any appreciative woman. “She’s a confident woman who really appreciates beautiful things. She’s strong, she’s also socially involved, and she understands the craftsmanship of the house. She also is feminine, and she likes to show her body. She’s… beautiful. To me, all women are beautiful,” he said.

J. Mendel spring/summer 2016

SAME AS TODAY

FURTHER READING

The View at The Palm Opens in Dubai with Human-Centric Purpose

Whitewall spoke with John Bricker of Gensler about The View at The Palm in Dubai.

Louis Fratino Finds Power in Images of What We Love

Louis Fratino spoke with Whitewall about keeping the studio a space free from fear of failure.

The BMW Neue Klasse Looks to an All-Electric Future

The BMW Neue Klasse is a statement piece for a new era: design language that references classic BMW for its soon-to-be all-electric lineup.

KidSuper World Opens New Headquarters in Brooklyn

After two years of planning and construction, creative collective KidSuper opened its new headquarters, KidSuper World, on February 10.

SUBSCRIBE TO MAGAZINE

Kelly Wearstler

THE WINTER EXPERIENCE ISSUE
2023

Subscribe

SUBSCRIBE TO NEWSLETTER

Go inside the worlds of Art, Fashion, Design and Lifestyle.

READ THIS NEXT

After two years of planning and construction, creative collective KidSuper opened its new headquarters, KidSuper World, on February 10.

SUBSCRIBE TO NEWSLETTER

Go inside the worlds
of Art, Fashion, Design,
and Lifestyle.