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For Kenzo’s spring/summer 2018 collection, which debuted in Paris yesterday, designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon looked to two muses: Ryuichi Sakamoto and Sayoko Yamaguchi. Of note is Sakamoto’s work as a member of Yellow Magic Orchestra, and as a solo composer, dancer, and activist. Yamaguchi, one of the world’s first supermodels, is celebrated this season as a past muse of the house and Kenzo Takada. In both the women’s and men’s collections, these two sources influenced in parallel.
For ladies, clashing stripes, florals, and paisley prints were seen on racing tees, jacquard coats, and ruffled dresses. Calf-high striped socks were paired with slip-on double-strap sandals, and men’s blazers are seen reimagined for an oversized masculine-meets-feminine look. Dangling ties—from bralette tops over shirts, the side cinches of sleeves, and the bottom gatherings of dresses—flowed. The new Gyoza bag (in neon, stripes, or patent leather with a ball clasp closure) was held by a simple arch strap, and bucket bags were held by a wristlet strap. Sheer dresses were worn over and under more bold and busy graphic skirts and tops, and accessories (like chokers, bucket hats, belts, and face-framing sunglasses) were vibrant. There were reversible raincoats—in trench or high gloss—and memorable metallic skirts.
Sakamoto’s foray into minimalism was key for menswear. Strong shapes—sharp shoulders and high waists—were elevated with British tailoring and a 1950s Japanese baseball look. Special for the collection were prints provided by Sakamoto, seen on graphic album cover tees, and worn with paisley and striped trousers. Like women, extra-long belts grabbed attention between solid, floral, and stripe tops and bottoms, and there was a new micro leather-and-nylon gym bag too. Sandals and flat sole boots with laces met gathered or straight-down trousers at the ankle.