Viktor & Rolf Quietly Bows Out of Ready-to-Wear

Though the presentation lacked theatrics, the clothing is exquisite and seems to insinuate that the brand’s new focus on couture will yield stunning results. The collection is a marvel in its construction, with abstract, architectural silhouettes that fall fluidly over the body. The palette is subdued: black, white, khaki green, charcoal, gold, and putty pink, but it’s set off by luxe textures and patterns like shimmering lurex and floral jacquard. Massive ruffles in black-backed gold lurex cascade down bodices, and cutaway, asymmetrical shapes abound in blouses, vests, and skirts. Standouts included a pair of cropped and creased men-style lurex trousers coupled with a cutaway, scallop-edged, tropical print blouse.