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Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren of Viktor & Rolf quietly bowed out of ready-to-wear this season, so quietly in fact, that you wouldn’t guess it was a finale if you didn’t know–they didn’t even host a show. Instead, they photographed models Jamie Bouchert and Linn Arvidsson against a grey backdrop, and filmed them as they exited the frame wearing each look, a subtle, somewhat mocking reference to the brand’s own departure. The pair announced in January that they planned to terminate their ready-to-wear brand to focus on their couture branch, and this season’s collection is their last.
Though the presentation lacked theatrics, the clothing is exquisite and seems to insinuate that the brand’s new focus on couture will yield stunning results. The collection is a marvel in its construction, with abstract, architectural silhouettes that fall fluidly over the body. The palette is subdued: black, white, khaki green, charcoal, gold, and putty pink, but it’s set off by luxe textures and patterns like shimmering lurex and floral jacquard. Massive ruffles in black-backed gold lurex cascade down bodices, and cutaway, asymmetrical shapes abound in blouses, vests, and skirts. Standouts included a pair of cropped and creased men-style lurex trousers coupled with a cutaway, scallop-edged, tropical print blouse.