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Vionnet Pre-Fall 2014: Pleating, Fur, and the Pink Panther

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The first thing you notice about Vionnet’s pre-fall 2014 collection is the vibrant palette of colors: bold yellows, oranges, blues, and even pinks. “I like to bring out a color when people forget about it. People forgot about pink!” designer Goga Ashkenazi said over a techno rendition of the Pink Panther theme.

The silhouettes draw from the vintage sportswear designs of the 1920s and 1930s, especially when it comes to pleating, which originally was Madeleine Vionnet’s forte. Dresses are made contemporary with dynamic animal prints, jersey fabrics, and fur touches. A tribal motif runs through the line, at best subtly realized in a jacquard wool cape embellished with cave-art style markings. Geometry is also key with Vionnet for pre-fall, as pyramid-shaped structural heels and retro two-toned bags accent the clothing’s sartorial elegance.

Photo by Frazer Harrison.

The Mosaic Bag line is also functional, as they can be taken apart and worn in a variety of styles. Several differently textured pieces are sold separately, allowing you to create an entirely new purse at a fraction of the cost!

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Minjung Kim

THE SPRING ARTIST ISSUE
2023

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