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Yiqing Yin Haute Couture, spring/summer 2016

Yiqing Yin: Woman as Supreme Visual Present

Hosted in the elegant buildings of the Université Diderot in Paris, Yiqing Yin’s spring/summer haute couture collection added a note of wildness to the sober neoclassical interior. Yin’s recent signature snakeskin motifs reappeared in the variously exfoliating fabrics that moulted from opacity and translucency to skin-revealing chinks in the dresses and sashes.

Yin’s criss-crossing technique worked wonders again, evolving into intricately knotted and layered outfits, which blurred the boundaries between top and bottom. Some outfits possessed an interlocking slate-like quality that managed to make garments look tight-fitting and comfortably loose at the same time.

Yiqing Yin Haute Couture, spring/summer 2016

With their bands and flowing drapery, some dresses would not have looked out of place in a Tolkien-like saga or some retro-futuristic film set. One heart-stoppingly ethereal dress recalled the flowing attire worn by Lady Fortuna in The Wheel of Fortune, the Pre-Raphaelite painting by Edward Burne-Jones.

The warmer-looking garments sported fur that was equally layered around tighter-fitting, finely interwoven leather bands. One ostentatious outsized boa seemed like an endless hybrid tail snaking its way down to double-textured leather pants.

Yiqing Yin Haute Couture, spring/summer 2016

A few dresses had intriguing patchwork fur stitched into fascinatingly subtle designs. Yin is also supremely good at concocting latticed leather lace that makes whole outfits look like outdoor head-to-foot lingerie.

Another style that Yin is particularly adept at is the gift-wrapped look: woman as supreme visual present. Yin is always careful to offset too much ribboning in these outfits with fine tonal and textural contrasts, providing sleek high-heeled shoe-wear to sharpen naivety into sexiness.

Yiqing Yin Haute Couture, spring/summer 2016

The parade ended with some breast-revealing wiry meshing that added an almost Gothic finale, a slightly eerie atmosphere that turned into delightful suspense as the last dress was revealed in near-total darkness. It was confected out of dozens of miniscule lights attached to interlaced wires.




Valentino's extravagantly simple haute couture FW24 collection was seen in Paris this week, designed by Pierpaolo Piccioli.


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