Behind Modern Moghul’s Jewelry Ties to Jaipur

Just over a decade ago, the Texas-based architect and interior designer Bibiana Dykema of LEVY DYKEMA took a trip to Jaipur with a friend, client, and Indian native named Shital Patel. For an interior design project, she was in the market for new fabrics, yet she brought with her a favorite strand of gold wax beads from home—a necklace that garnered compliments wherever she went. Patel knew it was an Indian design and hoped she could find something similar. A few days and a passion project later, she worked with a local artisan to recreate several strands, returning with several necklaces for her friends. Through this experience, she realized there was a market for such creation, and partnered with Patel to imagine the jewelry brand Modern Moghul.

Today, the collection is a harmonious combination of East meets West—a blend of regal Indian motifs and the colors, forms, dimensions, and proportions Dykema’s architectural work is known for. Each Modern Moghul piece is rendered into new variations of silhouettes, mixed with gorgeous gemstones inside rhodium-plated silver and gold vermeil. To start, Dykema designs each ageless piece by hand, resulting in one-of-a-kind pieces made by hand in India by local craftspeople. Whitewall spoke with Dykema to hear how she creates Modern Moghul jewelry between the United States and India, what’s in her jewelry box, and the unexpected design she’s working on now.

Modern Moghul: The Journey to Jaipur

WHITEWALL: Bibiana, tell us about your visit to India 12 years ago and how the people, textiles, culture, and jewelry of Jaipur inspired you.

BIBIANA DYKEMA: I was expecting to love India because I traveled quite often to Mexico as a child with my family. There are similarities, although India’s environment is even more colorful and active. The frenetic driving and integration of animals in the neighborhoods was a surprise. I fell in love immediately. The people are quite friendly, hardworking and generous. The fabrics and jewels were an added bonus. We try to return annually. Covid was a setback, but we are on schedule again.

WW: You shared findings from this trip with your companion and then-client, Shital Patel, a native of India, which prompted you to collaborate on a business, launching Modern Moghul. How did this happen?

BD: I traveled to India with Shital and his family to source fabrics for an interior design project that I was working on in California. I had some gold beads made in Jaipur on that trip. When I got home, all of my girlfriends wanted some. From that, Modern Moghul was born. We were all running businesses, but not retail.

WW: How are the pieces representative of both of your lives—inspired by Bibiana’s architecture work, and honoring Shital’s heritage?

BD: My background in architecture comes through my designs even when I am not aware of it. Geometric, colorful and playful. Shital’s heritage plays a big role. Our artisans who craft the pieces have been working with jewels for years. Their training is in the Indian tradition and their work is beautiful. I am always thankful that their pride of workmanship is so evident.

WW: How does the label balance craftsmanship and innovation? 

BD: I rarely question the actual craftsmanship. I draw the jewelry piece first. Then the team works out the design, selecting stones and materials and looking at the proportions and weight. It is definitely a collaboration. Just like architecture, I sometimes want to do the impossible, but it is good to challenge the norms. Some of those pieces are the best.

“I design jewelry to relax. It is my go to that brings me joy,”

— Bibiana Dykema

WW: How does your life and practice today, as a Texas-based architect, impact your jewelry design?

BD: I design jewelry to relax. It is my go-to that brings me joy. The same with traveling to India. I actually look forward to the plane ride as a time to unplug and sketch. I integrate architecture and jewelry into every day. Many of my architectural clients are also jewelry clients. I find time for both.

WW: How do you hope Modern Moghul brings East and West together? What details do this, embodying Indian motifs in a modern way?

BD: There is definitely an Indian aesthetic in our jewelry. That is important because that is where it is originally produced and inspired. The Western influence is the twist I add to the pieces. Some people say it is a modern approach to Indian jewelry. I say it is a marriage of the two.

WW: Tell us about the materials used to make your creations—from rhodium-plated silver and gold vermeil to vibrant colored gems.

BD: The rhodium-plating and gold vermeil are very traditional Indian techniques. I love the mixture because it can be dressed up or down. The vibrant gems are readily available in India. I love color in interiors, clothing, and jewelry. Playing with gemstone combinations is truly a blast. Some stones, like opals, I have worked hard to source because they are not as popular in India.

WW: What’s in your jewelry box? Any heirlooms?

BD: My jewelry box is an antique desk with drawers lined in a Schumacher velvet leopard print. In it are pieces from my mother and mother-in-law, as well as gifts from my husband. My mother had an extensive collection of American Indian jewelry, many pieces of which I own. Of course, there is a wonderful collection of Modern Mogul pieces. I am always wearing new and old pieces. The combination is interesting and reflective of my life. My necklaces, bracelets, rings and charms are stored separately. I find it is easier for me to pick something to wear that way. I also have a safe that is lined in the same leopard velvet and holds additional pieces.

What’s Next for Modern Moghul

WW: What are you working on now?

BD: I am currently working on a series of beautiful bolo ties. We have been to so many western events and every time I wish I had a Modern Moghul bolo tie. Well, just you wait. Here we come! I already have orders…