Chef Prateek Sadhu on Naar, the Himalayas, and the Future of Indian Cuisine

In the small village of Darwa in Himachal Pradesh, the unique terrain of the Himalayan Mountains provides fertile ground for fresh, flavorful produce, adding to the local storytelling of each dish at NAAR. As the restaurant’s chef, Prateek Sadhu, told Whitewall recently, “We are the mushroom capital of India. We’re also the trout belt of India. We’re blessed with incredible produce from the Himalayan belt.” 

With a respectful nod to the origin of each ingredient, Sadhu crafts dishes reflective of his and the restaurant’s roots in India, with lesser-known items including Himachali apples, Sikkimese bamboo shoot pickles, cumin-flecked Gouda cheese, hemp seed chutney, and pine nut ice cream. We spoke with Sadhu about his 16-seat space and how he embraces the stories, shared experiences, and rituals of the region.

WHITEWALL: You grew up in Kashmir. How did your early experiences with family farms and traditional cooking influence your decision to pursue a career in the culinary arts?

PRATEEK SADHU: Growing up in Kashmir, I was always surrounded by food, but I never thought of pursuing a career in culinary arts or being a chef. I call myself an accidental chef because I wanted to be a commercial pilot. I still am very fascinated with planes. But when I became a chef professionally, my experiences growing up and eating the food from Kashmir helped me define my own voice. Growing up, being a refugee in my own country… it really helped me create a voice of my own.

“Growing up in Kashmir, I was always surrounded by food,”

 Prateek Sadhu 

Why Critics Are Calling Naar India’s Noma

WW: How do you source and incorporate the unique produce of the Himalayan region into NAAR’s menu? What challenges have you encountered in this process?

PS: I’ve been researching in this region for many years, so I have a good connection with a lot of farmers and producers here, who grow incredible fruits and vegetables. That network was always there. One of the biggest challenges for us is logistics. We’re in the middle of nowhere and getting produce here becomes a challenge. We really have to plan in advance to get the best produce. 

WW: What role does foraging play in your culinary practice at NAAR, and how do you ensure the ethical and sustainable harvesting of wild ingredients?

PS: Foraging plays a very important role. It’s one of the verticals in our vision board. We’re not just not foraging for food—we’re foraging for stories. We’re foraging for service, we’re foraging for plates. We’re inside a jungle, so sometimes, instead of a plate, we will serve you food on a bigger leaf, which you can pick just outside. The idea is to really showcase where you are—that’s number one. I also think the rule in foraging is: take what you need, not what you want.

“We’re not just not foraging for food—we’re foraging for stories,”

 Prateek Sadhu 

WW: How has your culinary journey influenced your perspective on climate change, and how do you convey this awareness through your dishes at NAAR?

PS: Climate change is real, and we can see those changes in the mountains—be it hot summers or fewer winters. We are very conscious of where we source our food, from what kind of farmers, how much food is cooked, and how much waste and how much compost we are generating. We want to run a very responsible restaurant, conscious of our surroundings. We’re talking about these things in our briefings as well. It’s all about small steps.

“Climate change is real, and we can see those changes in the mountains,”

 Prateek Sadhu 

The Long-Term Goals, Responsible Practices, and Advice of NAAR 

Ingredient photo by Pankaj Anand; Courtesy of NAAR.

Ingredient photo by Pankaj Anand; Courtesy of NAAR.

WW: What are your long-term goals for NAAR, and how do you envision its role in shaping the future of Indian gastronomy on a global scale?

PS: A long-term goal is to dig deep within the Himalayan food culture, championing different regions within India and taking inspiration from that. The longer-term goal is to spend time in research and development, and to change the perception of what people think about Indian food. The longer vision is also to put India on the global map. This is the best time in food and beverage. This hasn’t been the best time ever for Indian restaurants and Indian food, so we’re looking forward to what’s next for India. 

“A long-term goal is to dig deep within the Himalayan food culture,”

Prateek Sadhu 

WW: In what ways does NAAR embody responsible practices, and how do you address the challenges of implementing these?

PS: We’re very responsible as a restaurant. Number one is: how much food waste is there. Since it’s a small restaurant, we run only one menu. We know how many guests are going to dine with us since it’s a destination, so there are no walk-ins. The food is prepared according to the number of reservations. That speaks a lot about the way we operate. I don’t think NAAR has many challenges in implementing this. If I was in a metro city, I’m sure there would be those challenges. We know exactly how much to cook. If there’s waste, it goes back into the compost pit, which is right behind the restaurant. The compost goes back to the farm. NAAR’s a very tight circular practice, where whatever comes in goes back to the soil.

“NAAR’s a very tight circular practice, where whatever comes in goes back to the soil,”

Prateek Sadhu 

WW: What guidance would you offer to young chefs who aspire to integrate sustainability, cultural heritage, and innovation into their culinary careers?PS: Travel within India. Because India has 29 states, it’s so diverse. Every state has its own food. It has its own culture, customs, and language. The idea is to cook, travel, understand India—understand why we cook what we cook—and understand that there’s enough diversity and flavor profile within our own country, then champion that. Understand it, and don’t disturb its roots. Don’t disturb the soul of it.