In the center of the city, Almanac Barcelona is more than a luxury hotel—it’s a place where art, gastronomy, and design converge. Nowhere is that trinity more apparent than inside its restaurant, Virens, led by Chef Rodrigo de la Calle. Here, the Michelin-recognized kitchen of Gastrobotánica elevates plant-based ingredients to the forefront with creativity and care, reimagining what “fine dining” means in a city rooted in robust culinary traditions that often center on meat.
Almanac itself is a living gallery. The hotel curates rotating exhibitions of emergent local artists—among them Catherine Parra, Alberto Ruiz Villar, Alex Voinea, Palma Alvariño, and Jordi Artigas—whose works inhabit the Terrace Suites and even the walls of Virens. A unique “Hidden Art” package, too, lets guests sleep surrounded by this artwork, take private tours of Catherine Parra’s atelier, and even uncover a hidden piece in their suite to take home.
Courtesy of Almanac Barcelona.
Courtesy of Almanac Barcelona.
This fusion of art and cuisine frames Virens not just as a restaurant, but as a full-sensory experience: visual inspiration from the space, intellectual engagement from the menu, and the feeling that every element—taste, texture, and design—has been expertly curated.
Whitewall spoke with Chef de la Calle about how flavor, sustainability, and creativity intersect in his work, and how Virens is ushering in a new vision of plant-forward dining.
Rodrigo de la Calle on Elevating Plants
Courtesy of Almanac Barcelona.
WHITEWALL: You’ve become internationally known for your concept of “Gastrobotánica.” How did your philosophy of elevating plant-based ingredients begin? What was the spark?
RODRIGO DE LA CALLE: Gastrobotany was born out of a collaboration with botanists from southeastern Spain, particularly in Elche, where I realized that many edible plants were completely unknown in haute cuisine. The spark came when I understood that the plant world is infinite — and yet we treated it merely as a side element. Since then, my goal has been to make it the star of the plate, exploring flavors, textures, and species that have been forgotten or overlooked.
“The plant world is infinite,”
-Rodrigo de la Calle
WW: At Virens, vegetables take center stage. What does it mean to you to create a primarily vegetarian menu in a city with such strong culinary traditions—and many tied to meat?
RDLC: I see it as an opportunity, not a contradiction. For me, it’s not about imposing an idea, but about offering an alternative that’s just as rich, complex, and emotionally resonant. It’s about opening the door to a different way of eating — more mindful, more plant-forward — without sacrificing flavor or technique.
WW: Your cuisine doesn’t just eliminate meat, it reinvents flavor and texture synonymous with meat. How do you approach composing a dish to surprise both vegetarian and non-vegetarian diners? What ingredients help you do this most?
RDLC: The goal isn’t to imitate meat, but to create both familiar and new sensations — intensity, umami, juiciness. We work extensively with fermentations, plant aging techniques, reduced broths, and natural processes like smoking and slow roasting. Ingredients such as red cardoon, mushrooms, celeriac, and fermented cabbage allow us to achieve that depth of flavor.
A Sustainable, Plant-Based Future
Courtesy of Almanac Barcelona.
WW: You’ve personally been awarded a Michelin star. How has this recognition influenced you and your team? What does it validate for you personally?
RDLC: It’s been an immense joy, especially because it recognizes a plant-based, sustainable project. The team has felt incredibly proud, and it’s given us even more motivation to keep exploring. Personally, I see it as a validation of many years spent fighting for a different kind of cuisine—one that hasn’t always been easy to defend.
WW: What do you feel won you that acclaim?
RDLC: I believe it’s the project’s coherence—from the philosophy to what ends up on the plate. It’s not a trend, but a genuine commitment to plant-based ingredients, sustainability, and a different way of understanding cuisine.
Global Wisdom, Local Plates
Courtesy of Almanac Barcelona.
WW: You’ve worked across Spain and internationally, from Elche to Madrid to Shanghai. How has your global experience shaped your cooking at Virens in Barcelona?
RDLC: Every place has taught me something. In Elche, I learned to see the land with new eyes. Madrid taught me rhythm and high standards. And in Shanghai, I discovered a very different approach to vegetables — one that values fermentation, curing, and slowness. All of that, in one way or another, is reflected in the way I cook.
“Without curiosity and research, you end up stuck,”
-Rodrigo de la Calle
WW: Fermentation, foraging, and even medicinal plants make their way onto your menus. What roles do research and biodiversity play in your creative process?
RDLC: They’re part of my everyday work. Without curiosity and research, you end up stuck. I collaborate with farmers, botanists, and small producers who help me discover new paths. Biodiversity isn’t a luxury — it’s both a creative tool and a responsibility.
WW: Looking ahead, what do you hope guests take away from dining at Virens—not just in terms of flavor, but in terms of how they think about food and sustainability?
RDLC: I want people to enjoy the experience, of course, but also to be left thinking. To see that plant-based food can be moving — that it’s not a poor alternative, but a rich, vibrant cuisine with a message. And if it also makes them reflect on what they eat and why, then the goal is achieved.
Courtesy of Almanac Barcelona.
