This year, the Indian high jewelry house MOKSH celebrates two decades of business. Founded by Milan Chokshi in 2005 in Bombay, the brand emerged from an extraordinary lineage—over eight decades of family experience in the gem and jewelry trade—and a deeply personal admiration for Indian art, architecture, and spiritual tradition. The first spark? A pair of earrings inspired by a wreath of pearls that once adorned a Jain Tirthankara idol worshipped by the founder’s grandmother. That intimate attention to heritage remains a core tenet of MOKSH’s design philosophy today.
Today, the contemporary Indian jewelry brand is recognized for its intricate pearl weaving, patented stringing techniques, and modern reinterpretations of Mughal artistry, and for carving out a unique niche in the global luxury space. From their dual studio and atelier in the heart of Bombay, a dedicated team of Indian artisans and designers crafts each jewel with near-meditative attention to detail—blending old-world elegance with new-world engineering. Timed to the release of its 2025 lines, sending new works to the The Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition, and expanding their family-led legacy as the founder’s son joins the business, Whitewall spoke with Chokshi about how MOKSH Mumbai is born from eight generations of jewelry dedication and why it remains inspired by the past to inspire bold new direction.
20 Years of MOKSH
Milan Choksi, courtesy of MOKSH.
Courtesy of MOKSH.
WHITEWALL: MOKSH is celebrating 20 years in business. How has it evolved since its inception?
MILAN CHOKSHI: Moksh was born out of an intense admiration of our Indian art and architecture, apart from the fact that as a family we have been in the gems and jewelry Industry for over eight decades. What started off as an attempt to use our experience, jewelry making, and design skills to create an unseen product has now led us down a path where we have clients globally. One of our first few pieces was inspired by a wreath of pearls that was used to adorn an Idol of a Jain Tirthankara that was worshipped by my grandma. It was a pair of earrings with a drop shaped ball that was coated with woven Keshi pearls.
“One of our first few pieces was inspired by a wreath of pearls…”
—Milan Chokshi
Our studio is divided into two spaces. The design studio is where the materials are selected and where designing is done. The final detailing of the pearls and beading is also done here. At the atelier is where the engineering and goldsmithing is done. This is also where all the gemstones and diamonds are cut to exact shapes, following which they are set in the mounting. We also have a procurement centre where we source all the gemstones and diamonds for our jewellery.
WW: Your deep understanding and appreciation for Moghul styles have informed MOKSH. How do your creations pay tribute to, and reimagine, this style? How do you balance modern aesthetics with the traditional elegance often associated with fine jewelry?
MC: The presence of the beautiful structures, which are very much a part of our history as well as our day to day lives, has always had a profound impact on me. Not only as an Indian, but also as a jeweler and a photographer. My travels across the country allows me to bring back images and stones from different parts of the country. Over the last 40 years India has transformed and so has the entire landscape of society and consumer behavior. A lot of people from my generation appreciate the contemporary finish to everything MOKSH does.
Our constant attempt is to blend all our experience and skill along with the Indias rich heritage and culture. With a strong presence and background in the industry we are able to present the product in a palatable and contemporary fashion to the world. It did take some reconditioning of preset ideas and minds, but I can proudly state that we have created our own niche in the world of Indian jewelry. While it has all the shapes, forms, and colors that traditional Indian jewellery has, the finish and presentation of a jewel by MOKSH is unlike anything that is available anywhere in the world.
Joining Tradition and Contemporary Codes
Courtesy of MOKSH.
WW: How does MOKSH honor traditional Indian heritage while also pushing the boundaries of contemporary design?
MC: We continue to adapt the traditional skill of pearl weaving, gem cutting, and stone setting into modern jewellery making processes. We have a patent for our Stringing and Weaving Technique and our Baguette Channel setting is a skill that we have continued to hone over time. This along with the engineering and assembly of small parts with incredible detailing is a distinct feature of our jewellery.
“We continue to adapt the traditional skill…”
—Milan Chokshi
Courtesy of MOKSH.
Courtesy of MOKSH.
WW: What role do artisans play in your brand? How do they help shape MOKSH’s identity or creative process?
MC: Moksh would be nothing if it weren’t for the artisans. Their innate ability and gold smithing skill are the cornerstone of our identity. The skill has been passed down through generations and evolved with the continuous improvement in our processes and technology.
WW: How do elements of Indian craft and culture influence the brand’s designs?
MC: All our designs are inspired by Mogul Art, Miniatures, Hindu and Jain Temples, buildings from the Art Deco era in Mumbai. We incorporate traditional crafts like pearl weaving, beading and stone cutting in almost all our designs.
WW: How do you ensure these influences resonate with a global audience?
MC: The template for all our communications is global in its tone. Our Photo Shoots, Brand collaterals etc are all conceptulized along with a UK based consultant. Our Design Head is in constant touch with our brand reps in The USA. And globally we are seeing an increasing awareness and appreciation for all things Indian.
Balancing Innovation and Experimentation
Courtesy of MOKSH.
Courtesy of MOKSH.
WW: MOKSH balances innovation and beauty, using materials like South Sea pearls and gemstones. How do you select and experiment with these materials to create distinctive designs?
MC: Being in the business for so many years has some benefits. Which include having access and the knowledge for souring unique looking and distinct materials. The selection is done keeping in mind various factors including value, quality, rarity and aesthetics.
WW: This year, you’re celebrating your 20th anniversary of MOKSH. What do you hope it stands for?
MC: When we started, the gems and jewellery trade was in a really different space. Today, the entire industry has turned on its head with alternative options in raw materials , an ever evolving consumer landscape and general over exposure on all fronts. In spite of everything, we continue to stand for good old fashioned values like authenticity, quiet luxury, classic aesthetics, beauty and grace. There will always be many new ideas and concepts. But the desire to own a beautifully crafted, well designed and well presented piece of jewellery is going nowhere, in our opinion.
WW: What are you working on this year?
MC: There is a lot happening. We showed our new line to the Qatar Jewellery show, and it’s some of our best work. I also just showcased some of my photographs from my travels over the last few years, and am now working on the next exhibit. We just launched our new campaign which was shot on film by a renowned Indian photographer Ashish Shah, its been an exciting and path-breaking campaign in some ways. we definitely broke some rules. Finally, my son will completes his gemology program in the next couple of months and will jump into the business shortly after that.
Milan Chokshi’s Journey
Milan Chokshi is a fourth-generation gemologist and design enthusiast, and the founder of high-end jewelery brand “Moksh” and is also at the helm of affairs at Tanvirkumar & Co., his family’s 76-year-old business. A graduate from Mumbai University, Milan honed his professional skills at the Gemological Institute of America in Carlsbad, California in 1998 before joining his family business.
Moksh is renowned for its classic yet contemporary diamond jewelery lines that are impeccably crafted and designed.
Moksh began its journey in 2004 in India, and is currently available at stores in select locations in the US, Australia, Hong Kong and India.
The parent company Tanvirkumar has customers all over the world including but not limited to Thailand, UAE, USA, UK, HK, Turkey, Kuwait, Australia. The profile of the customers ranges from the worlds best jewellery factories to prestigious brands and retailers all over the world.
A hobbyist photographer and a cultural aesthete, Milan is a staunch believer in the quest to know oneself through one’s chosen medium as an artist — and these qualities are reflected through his brand Moksh, as well.
Milan took up the Owner President Management Programme at Harvard Business School in 2012. He is the director of Bullion Operations at Diamond India Limited, India’s leading nominated agency for gold, and is also currently the convener — marketing and promotions, at the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), India.
The cause of education is close to his heart, and he is a managing committee member at Each One Teach One, a 30-year-old NGO supporting the holistic needs of over 10,000 students from underprivileged backgrounds. – Source
