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Favorite Meal: Brunch at The Smile Restaurant

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A recent coldish and dreary Sunday morning brought us to NoHo in search of sustenance, warmth, and savories that only brunch can offer. To brunch is to live life right. With busy schedules, brunch does not happen often, but on this day with a craving for eggs and bloodies, we set our sights on The Smile Restaurant.

Neatly tucked away on Bond Street, just off Lafayette, The Smile is a very English-garden-home-meets-prewar-cozy-kitchen. The heavy scents of rich and hearty cooked meats, dark coffee beans, and a bit of sweet in the air confirmed that we chose our spot wisely. Our favorite meal here is the scrambled eggs with sourdough rustic bread and greens, along with the Gruyere and bacon, and sweet potato hash browns. The fluffy eggs, creamy cheese, thick cut bacon cooked in maple syrup went well with the side dish of gently tossed arugula house-made vinaigrette, which added the perfect amount of spice. The two generous slices of sourdough were lightly toasted and crispy, yet chewy (just right in our book). We saved the sweet potato hash browns for last, which are extra thinly grated and pan sautéed until soft with a bit of onion and green pepper. These certainly make us doubt the traditional version we’ve known since childhood.

Brunch is hardly complete without a bloody Mary, and The Smile offers a delicious version featuring house-infused pepper vodka along with house-made tomato juice, pickles, and fresh horseradish garnish. The coffee is definitely noteworthy; it’s rich and dark, and full of roasted flavor that easily stands up to a hearty meal.

The Smile is located at 26 Bond Street, NYC.

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Kelly Wearstler

THE WINTER EXPERIENCE ISSUE
2023

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