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Grand Seiko and Akio Naito: The Unrivaled Poetry of Japanese Watchmaking

Grand Seiko and Akio Naito: The Unrivaled Poetry of Japanese Watchmaking

On watchmaker Seiko’s 145th anniversary, the President of Grand Seiko meditates on design philosophy, technical innovations, and soulful values.

At Grand Seiko, time evolves with weight and texture—gliding, shimmering, profoundly alive. Sitting at the helm, President Akio Naito leads within an inspiring world shaped by frost-etched dials, the focused hush of workshops beneath Mount Iwate, and the steady pulse of movements tuned to extraordinary precision. 

At Watches and Wonders 2026, that vision unfolds in vivid scenes: cherry blossoms drifting across a moonlit blue dial, a winter-bound forest flickering in gold, and the inky depth of indigo brought to life through intricate craftsmanship. Soft green tones evoke the first leaves of spring, while a jeweled creation burns with the intensity of the lion. A hand-engraved Spring Drive piece traces the flow of a hidden waterfall, as two diver’s watches echo the shifting rhythm of the sea. Across each, precious metals, intricate engraving, and polished surfaces capture fleeting moments of the organic world with remarkable exactitude.

In an in-depth conversation with Whitewall, President Naito’s words guide a philosophy where nature, craft, and technology are inseparable, and where accuracy is felt just as much as it is measured. Deeply rooted in Japanese sensibility and open to the world, Grand Seiko continues to enchant as a brand of sincerity, one that listens closely to time—and offers it magnificent form.

Grand Seiko and Akio Naito: The Unrivaled Poetry of Japanese Watchmaking Portrait of President Akio Naito, courtesy of Grand Seiko.

WW: Grand Seiko has come to represent a distinct dialogue between heritage and innovation. As President of Seiko Watch Corporation, how do you personally approach the responsibility of protecting Grand Seiko’s historical legacy while ensuring its relevance within today’s rapidly evolving global horological landscape?

AKIO NAITO: When the first Grand Seiko was created in 1960, our watchmakers’ ambition was to pursue watchmaking perfection, to create the ultimate wristwatch. From the very beginning, this meant achieving the highest possible standards in accuracy, legibility, durability, and beauty. These values have remained unchanged for more than six decades and continue to define every Grand Seiko timepiece today.

Protecting this legacy begins with preserving the fundamental principles that form the foundation of the brand. To do that, I meet regularly with our watchmakers and designers to exchange ideas about our products. We discuss how our legacy is one of constant improvement, and that honoring our traditions also means building the future of the brand. Luckily, our people are all deeply knowledgeable about Grand Seiko and its heritage and are passionate about it. The older masters teach the younger artisans, so I rarely if ever need to remind them of the brand’s core values. Nevertheless, it is important to discuss various aspects of the brand with everyone who is involved in creating new Grand Seiko products to make sure that we are all aware of the brand’s legacy as we move forward.

We often begin by discussing design — all Grand Seiko watches have adhered to a strict design grammar, known as the Grand Seiko Style, since it was established in 1967 with the introduction of the 44GS. That design expressed a distinctly Japanese aesthetic rooted in the harmonious relationship between light and shadow, a heritage we continue to honor with each new creation.

I also talk about ensuring that Grand Seiko remains a world leader in performance. Here, too, honoring our legacy means always aiming to do better. The Grand Seiko Standard for mechanical movements, established back in 1969, requires an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds per day. This standard exceeds conventional industry norms and reflects our uncompromising approach to precision. Grand Seiko has always set its own performance benchmarks, and decade after decade, these benchmarks have earned the brand a level of trust unsurpassed among watch lovers worldwide. 

I constantly remind our staff that it is essential to listen to the needs and desires of our customers, our fans, and our partners worldwide. One good example is the Spring Drive U.F.A., introduced at Watches & Wonders Geneva last year. Our customers said they love the superb accuracy of the Spring Drive movement, but they wanted something more compact. We responded with the U.F.A., which offers a diameter of just 37mm yet elevates the Spring Drive to new heights of accuracy, providing a deviation of just ±20 seconds per year. 

Creating the highest level of accuracy found in a mechanically driven wristwatch today is one more way that we honor our legacy while at the same time innovating. This is part of our DNA, and it will not change, even as the industry evolves.

I believe it is essential to remain true to Grand Seiko’s identity and heritage. Ensuring that the brand develops in a way that is rooted in its history, rather than being dominated by external forces such as industry trends, is crucial. At the same time, I strongly encourage our team to bring fresh perspectives and to think beyond conventional boundaries. Maintaining this balance between forward-thinking approaches and respect for our heritage is what, in my view, keeps Grand Seiko exciting and relevant in a changing industry.

The Nature of Time

Grand Seiko and Akio Naito: The Unrivaled Poetry of Japanese Watchmaking Courtesy of Grand Seiko.

WW: The philosophy of “The Nature of Time” feels deeply rooted in Japanese cultural consciousness, where time is often understood as cyclical, seasonal, and spiritual rather than purely linear. How does this worldview continue to inform Grand Seiko’s design language and technical ambitions in a modern context?

AN: Grand Seiko’s philosophy, “The Nature of Time,” has two meanings. One is the pursuit of the essence, or nature, of time itself through precise measurement. Precision timekeeping has always been a cornerstone of our creations, beginning with our very first watch in 1960. However, this pursuit is not limited to accuracy alone. It also encompasses legibility, durability, and beauty, reflecting our broader goal of creating the ultimate wristwatch.

The second meaning of “The Nature of Time” expresses the deep respect for Nature that is rooted in traditional Japanese culture. This is reflected in many Grand Seiko creations that feature textured dials that capture the beauty of the natural surroundings where our watches are made. These designs are inspired directly by the landscapes and seasons of Japan and serve as a visual expression of how time is experienced through Nature.

“Maintaining this balance between forward-thinking approaches and respect for our heritage is what, in my view, keeps Grand Seiko exciting and relevant in a changing industry.”

President Akio Naito

This philosophy continues to guide our approach to both design and technology. To return to the example of the Spring Drive U.F.A., it represents our constant pursuit of the essence of time, being the most accurate spring-driven wristwatch in the industry today. In addition, its dial expresses the shimmering beauty of the ice-covered forests of the Kirigamine Highlands in central Japan, where the watch is made.

In this way, each Grand Seiko creation reflects “The Nature of Time” in both the technical and aesthetic sense, remaining true to our fundamental philosophy while continuing to evolve.

Crafting Place and Spirit

Grand Seiko and Akio Naito: The Unrivaled Poetry of Japanese Watchmaking Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, courtesy of Grand Seiko.

WW: Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, nestled in Iwate Prefecture and designed by Kengo Kuma, feels almost inseparable from its natural surroundings. How does this environment—and Kuma’s architectural philosophy—shape the spirit of craftsmanship practiced within the manufacture’s walls?

AN: When we first conceived of the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, our goal was to create the ideal environment for our craftspeople to bring Grand Seiko’s mechanical watches to life, while also serving as a place where the next generation of master watchmakers could be trained and hone their skills. We worked closely with Mr. Kengo Kuma to design a studio that would embody Grand Seiko’s philosophy and clearly express our dedication to the art of mechanical watchmaking.

We knew that Mr. Kuma, who is internationally known for his use of natural materials and his sensitivity to the surrounding environment, was the ideal architect for this project. He showed a deep understanding of  Grand Seiko’s philosophy,  which served as a guiding principle for the new studio. His approach allowed us to create a space that feels deeply connected to Nature while still meeting the highest design and technical requirements. Even the clean room where our movements are assembled is constructed entirely from wood. Creating this unusual structure was a significant challenge, as it required a careful balance between strict architectural demands and the use of all-natural materials, a balance we think only Mr. Kuma could have achieved. In the end, not only each Grand Seiko timepiece, but even the building itself is truly a work of art.

The studio’s natural surroundings also play an important role in shaping the spirit of craftsmanship within its walls. From the clean room, our watchmakers have a clear view of majestic Mt. Iwate, which overlooks the prefecture where the studio is located. We reflect this connection to the local area in our watchmaking, most notably through the Mt. Iwate dial pattern, which captures the mountain’s distinctive ridges.

The Shizukuishi studio is open to visitors, and we have had the pleasure of welcoming watch enthusiasts from around the world. By opening the studio in this way, we are able to share not only our craftsmanship, but also the environment and philosophy that continue to inspire it.

Innovation and Emotion

Grand Seiko and Akio Naito: The Unrivaled Poetry of Japanese Watchmaking Courtesy of Grand Seiko.

WW: Titled “Spring Drive and the Gift of Time,” your presentation at Watches and Wonders 2025 introduced a pivotal Grand Seiko creation that pushed watchmaking technology forward while also appealing to something deeply personal. What advances were being presented through this timepiece, and how does Grand Seiko ensure that technical achievement continues to speak to human emotion?

AN: From a technological perspective, we achieved a significant milestone with the amazing level of accuracy realized in the Spring Drive U.F.A. We began developing the original Spring Drive movement in the late 1970s with the aim of harmoniously blending the traditional energy of a mainspring with advanced electronic watchmaking technology. In 2004, Grand Seiko introduced the Spring Drive Caliber 9R65, combining automatic winding and a 72-hour power reserve with a monthly accuracy rate of ±15 seconds, setting a new benchmark among movements powered by a mainspring.

This legacy of precision reached a new pinnacle with the introduction of the Spring Drive Caliber 9RB2, which we designated as U.F.A. for “Ultra Fine Accuracy.” This movement defines precision not in seconds per day, per week, or per month, but over the course of an entire year, with a deviation of just ±20 seconds annually. When one considers that there are more than 31,000,000 seconds in a year, we take great pride in presenting a hand-crafted watch that varies by only 20 seconds over that span.

While these technological achievements are remarkable, I believe it is the emotional dimension that truly resonates with our fans and watch enthusiasts. One expression of this is the dial, which captures the snow-covered trees of the Kirigamine Highlands during the harsh winter months. Another is the continuous gliding motion of Spring Drive’s seconds hand, which conveys the natural flow of time itself and hints at a distinctly Japanese sense of beauty.

“While these technological achievements are remarkable, I believe it is the emotional dimension that truly resonates with our fans and watch enthusiasts.”

President Akio Naito

In Japan, there is an old saying, ichi-go ichi-e, meaning “one encounter, one moment.” It reminds us that every experience is unique and will never be repeated in exactly the same way again. Time, in this sense, is not simply a resource, but a gift of Nature. By combining technology with emotional expression, this creation reflects that belief, capturing each moment smoothly and delicately, in harmony with both time and Nature.

A Global Dialogue

Grand Seiko and Akio Naito: The Unrivaled Poetry of Japanese Watchmaking Courtesy of Grand Seiko.

WW: The “Tokyo Time” photographic campaign carries an evocative atmosphere—at once cinematic, nostalgic, and unmistakably contemporary. What inspired this visual direction, and how does it speak to Grand Seiko’s desire to connect with an increasingly international and culturally curious audience?

AN: Today, younger people seek watches that resonate with their own identity and values, rather than simply choosing brands that they see others wearing, as previous generations did. For this reason, it is important for us to communicate in a way that feels relevant to a younger, culturally curious, and globally minded audience.

Through the Tokyo Time campaign, we are appealing to exactly this audience. Grand Seiko’s global growth has been strongly supported by the interest shown by millennials and Gen Z, particularly those who are drawn both to traditional watchmaking and to new technologies such as our unique Spring Drive movement.

I also believe that Grand Seiko serves as a window into Japanese culture. In an age of increasing speed, information overload, and nanosecond attention, global interest in traditional Japanese culture continues to grow. Tokyo embodies the balance of tradition and modernity, making it a natural lens through which to understand Japanese values. Through Tokyo Time, we wanted to present Grand Seiko in a way that feels cinematic and contemporary, yet still authentic to our audience.

I am delighted that we have enthusiasts in every corner of the world who are culturally curious and who find that the elements of Japanese culture expressed in our watches resonate with their own sense of identity. I firmly believe that this group of customers will continue to grow in the years to come.

Looking Ahead

Grand Seiko and Akio Naito: The Unrivaled Poetry of Japanese Watchmaking Courtesy of Grand Seiko.

WW: As Grand Seiko prepares for its next chapter at Watches and Wonders 2026, what guiding ideas or values will shape the brand’s presence, and how do international platforms influence the way Grand Seiko communicates its uniquely Japanese sensibility?

AN: Grand Seiko has taken part in Watches and Wonders Geneva since 2022, and each year we have presented milestone creations that reflect the innovation and pursuit of watchmaking perfection that are central to our brand. In 2022, we introduced the Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon, Grand Seiko’s first mechanical complication watch and the first in the world to feature its unique horological mechanism, which was awarded the Chronometry Prize at the GPHG in 2022. The following year, we presented the Tentagraph, our first mechanical chronograph, which featured the world’s longest power reserve among high-beat chronograph movements. Most recently, we introduced the unparalleled accuracy of the Spring Drive U.F.A., further advancing our pursuit of precision.

These creations reflect a core belief that innovation is what moves Grand Seiko (and our industry as a whole) forward during a time of continual challenge. As we look toward Watches and Wonders 2026, this commitment to innovation will continue to guide our thinking. We aim to keep introducing watches that bring joy to watch fans while also making meaningful contributions to the broader horological landscape.

International platforms such as Watches and Wonders are extremely important for Grand Seiko, as they allow us to communicate both our technological achievements and the uniquely Japanese sensibilities that shape our watchmaking to a global audience. To gather in a single venue, together with our European counterparts and celebrate our industry’s newest, most exciting creations, creates an ideal environment to share our latest achievements.

“We aim to keep introducing watches that bring joy to watch fans while also making meaningful contributions to the broader horological landscape.”

President Akio Naito

Our booth design is another important expression of this philosophy. Carefully planned to reflect our values, it allows visitors to enjoy the Grand Seiko experience beyond the watches themselves. We have heard from many fans during the public days that the Grand Seiko booth has a distinctive presence, evoking a special sense of calm and a uniquely Japanese aesthetic. This response reassures us that our approach and our guiding values are being clearly communicated to customers on an international stage.

Personal Time

Grand Seiko and Akio Naito: The Unrivaled Poetry of Japanese Watchmaking Courtesy of Grand Seiko.

WW: Among Grand Seiko’s wide and evolving collection, are there particular timepieces that hold personal meaning for you—whether due to their design, technical achievement, or emotional resonance—and why do they stand out?

AN: One of my all-time favorite Grand Seiko models is the SBGW260, a limited-edition timepiece released five years ago to commemorate the 140th anniversary of the company’s founding. The watch is a faithful re-creation of the very first Grand Seiko from 1960.

This model holds deep personal significance for me, as I was born in the same year that Grand Seiko was introduced, and I became President of Seiko Watch Corporation in its 140th anniversary year. I acquired this watch upon my appointment as President at a flagship boutique in Ginza, which made the moment especially meaningful.

While Grand Seiko has produced several re-creations of the original model over the years, this was the first time it was executed in an 18k rose gold case. This choice gives the watch an exquisite, elegant presence, and for me, it represents a meaningful connection between personal milestones and the enduring heritage of Grand Seiko.

One Step Ahead

Grand Seiko and Akio Naito: The Unrivaled Poetry of Japanese Watchmaking Courtesy of Grand Seiko.

WW: This year marks Seiko’s 145th anniversary, a moment that invites reflection and projection. Founder Kintaro Hattori famously committed the company to being “always one step ahead of the rest.” How do you envision this philosophy being interpreted and carried forward over the next hundred years, especially as definitions of time, technology, and craftsmanship continue to evolve?

AN: Kintaro Hattori’s vision to be “always one step ahead of the rest” expresses our commitment to innovation and progress, while responding to society’s evolving needs and seeking to enrich people’s lives. For Kintaro, being one step ahead did not mean distancing oneself from society; he believed that advancing too far beyond one’s clients and apart from society would leave merchants disconnected from the real world. Progress, in his view, had to remain grounded in everyday life and genuine human needs.

This was the spirit that led him to import and sell Western clocks in Japan (which were a novelty at the time), and then to create his own, world-class timepieces at the Seikosha factory. While much has changed since the company’s founding, and the pace of change seems to be accelerating, it is exceedingly difficult to predict how the world will evolve. Yet there is one thing that I am sure will not change: Kintaro’s philosophy, which has continued to guide our company for almost 150 years.

One important expression of this philosophy is our ongoing contribution to our industry, not only pioneering technological advancements, but also creating designs based on Japanese aesthetics and products that inspire powerful emotions among their owners. We are proud of our legacy of innovation, exemplified by this year’s Spring Drive U.F.A. 

Another expression of this philosophy is an open, outward-looking approach to how we develop our business. Shortly after Japan was opened to the West, our founder recognized the growing demand for imported clocks and watches and later took the bold step of producing excellent models domestically. He built a strong reputation for putting his customers first, no matter what the circumstances.

In that same spirit, we continue to strengthen our relationship with fans around the world by enhancing customer experience and engaging directly with them through dedicated communities such as GS Club 9, which was created specifically for Grand Seiko owners. These interactions broaden our perspective and allow us to evolve together with our customers, while remaining firmly rooted in our values and our identity.

Grand Seiko and Akio Naito: The Unrivaled Poetry of Japanese Watchmaking Portrait of President Akio Naito, courtesy of Grand Seiko.

SAME AS TODAY

Featured image credits: Courtesy of Grand Seiko.

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