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Looking back at the High Jewelry collections presented last week in Paris, we’re sharing what’s new from Cartier, Chanel, De Beers, and Anna Hu.
Chanel debuted a 63-piece collection, “Le Paris Russe de Chanel,” paying tribute to the Russian inspirations that influenced Gabrielle Chanel. In a suite of designs called Blé Gabrielle (our favorite), the brand used a mix of yellow and white gold set with diamonds to imagine pieces like a bracelet and ring with a delicate leaf motif, each set with a central diamond—reminding us of crowns that could have been worn by Russian royalty—and a pair of medallion earrings dangling with gold fringe.
In Magnitude, Cartier’s 2019 High Jewelry collection, the brand presented us with the unexpected partnering of ornamental hard stones with precious stones. Juxtaposing pristine technique and a creative flair, the collection brings together pairings like matrix opal and sapphires, emerald mixed with rock crystal, and pink diamonds and morganite—seen in pieces like a pair of geometric diamond earrings complemented with fiery-hued morganite stones. Other highlights included the matching necklace and earrings with diamonds, turquoise amazonite, onyx, and large ruby beads and cabochon-cut rubies; and the glittering elephant ring accompanied with several hues of yellow stones.
In the brand’s largest High Jewelry collection to date, De Beers brought to life “Portraits of Nature.” Featuring five suites of designs, the collection was inspired by the monarch butterfly, electric cichlids, Chapman’s zebras, the Greater flamingo, and the Knysna chameleon. Embodying the flamingo, a flamboyant array of pink, brown, and orange diamonds were fashioned into pieces like a necklace of marquise-shaped stones, reminiscent of the bird’s elongated body. For the butterfly, tiny diamonds in pink, orange, and yellow were used to create miniscule 3D structures that emulate the iridescent quality of a butterfly’s wings. Recreating the speedy nature of the shining fish, the Electric cichlid pieces employ rough golden yellow diamonds to reflect an aqueous glimmer onto the wearer’s skin. In the zebra designs, the animal’s black and white graphic stripes were imagined in diamonds and gray mother of pearl. And finally, the transformative qualities of the chameleon were captured in pieces like a cocktail ring with an array of colored diamonds in bluish green, brown, pink, and pale yellow.
Informed by her background as a trained classical cellist, designer Anna Hu created the “Silk Road Music” collection—a series of musically-inspired pieces imagined in a kaleidoscope of rare gemstones. Featured in the collection are pieces like the Ellington earrings, a piano-like swirl of diamonds and sapphires with a pink conch pearl hanging at the center; the Jadeite Cello brooch, inspired by Picasso’s Violin Hanging on the Wall; and the Rachmaninov bracelet, inspired by the Russian composer and the architecture of St. Basil’s cathedral.