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The High Jewelry 2023 collections, many of which showed in Paris last week, are truly dazzling. Here Whitewall gives you a closer look at magnificent works of art from Cartier, Gucci, Gemfields, and Fendi.
Ardent curiosity for the nourishing and stylish shapes of the future, and respect for those of the past, guided the Cartier “Le Voyage Remommencé” High Jewelry collection. With refreshing palettes and luminous designs, the maison presented over 80 remarkable works of art. The diamond Claustra necklace took a shield shape, stunning in 4.02-carats with a transformable structure that may be separated into two bold parts. The Panthère Givrée necklace was grounded by a platinum, diamond spotted feline with seductive emerald eyes. Cartier’s iconic protective animal was surrounded by three aquamarine gemstones of 20.33 carats, and glows with lapis lazuli. Multicultural legacies were celebrated with the Islamic-inspired Girih necklace of geometric emeralds and turquoise, calling to mind the brand’s progressive experimentation with the blue and green peacock motif dating back to the early 1910s.
Gucci’s whimsical “Allegoria” High Jewelry collection was a passionate journey through the seasons, embracing mother nature’s reigning artistry and that of the famed fashion house. Signature floral motifs spread across curvaceous and sophisticated designs, such as a necklace of cushion-cut pink tourmaline, surrounded by diamonds and prismatic enamel. Summer’s lush greenery was evoked by bursting emeralds and multi-faceted diamonds, integrated with Gucci’s iconic avante-garde style. Autumn jewels were warm and nostalgic in yellow sapphire and mandarin garnet. A vintage-inspired yellow gold bracelet ebbed and flowed in shapes that dance around the wrist like falling leaves. Winter delighted with a diamond and iridescent opal necklace, and festive pieces which sparkled like the one and only holiday season.
As a leading responsible miner of the world’s most vibrant gemstones, Gemfields’s newest High Jewelry collection underscored its dedication to transparency, conservation, and innovation. A bright array of rings in lively designs promoted harmony and optimism with organic shapes and tones. Collaborations with like-minded high and fine jewelry designers produced one of a kind conversation pieces. A ring of black and white diamonds by Fehmida Lakhany, with pear-shaped emeralds from the brand’s Kagem emerald mine in Zambia, was a manifestation of Yin and Yang in contemporary culture. A blossoming ring by Bina Goenka combined fire opals and Zambian emeralds for a kaleidoscopic effect. Sustainability and the protection of African biodiversity is an integral mission of the brand, fused into Margery Hirschey’s ring of recycled materials, and the Fabergé x Game of Thrones capsule collection, offering Mozambican rubies as fire emanating from a dragon’s mouth. The fine-jewelry and eyewear aficionados of Francis de Lara offered the Ribbon Hearts sunglasses, boasting gold-plated aerospace-titanium, and dripping with Zambian emerald teardrops.
FENDI garnished the Couture Autumn/Winter 2023 collection with “FENDI Triptych,” a High Jewelry collection of goddess-like proportions. Designed by Artistic Director of Jewelry Delfina Delettrez Fendi, the grand presentation evoked the lines of Roman architecture and neoclassical, mirage-like patterns. Three ceremonious parts—titled Roma Rosa, Gioiello Giallo, and Bianco Brillante—presented a rainbow-hued journey through pastel colors of pink, orange, yellow, and green. In collaboration with the brand’s master gemologist, the iconic FF motif was creatively merged into earrings, necklaces, and rings with surreal movement and lightness. Within Roma Rosa, a fluid pendant necklace catches the eye with oval-cut pink sapphires that were structured like feathery wings. The yellow sapphires and diamonds of Gioiello Giallo celebrated perpetual sunsets, while the all white-diamonds of Bianco Brillante were formed into a cage-like unisex portrait necklace with tapering FF motifs that was a glittering beacon to the poetic expressions of the human visage.