High Jewelry 2023: Dior, Louis Vuitton, and More

This week in Paris, along with the Haute Couture presentations taking place, jewelry maisons are introducing their latest gems and marvels. Here, we’re sharing what’s new from Dior, Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co., Boucheron, and Repossi.

Continuing to illustrate the story of Monsieur Christian Dior’s love of flowers, Dior’s Creative Director of Jewelry Victoire de Castellane introduced 170 designs in the collection “Les Jardins de la Couture.” Brought to life through an extravagant dinner presentation were pieces of the utmost quality and beauty, employing precious gems, white and yellow gold, and nature-inspired motifs from sun rays to flower petals. We’re still dreaming of a suite featuring a choker, hoops, and an ear cuff in blue sapphires and twinkling diamonds, and a series of golden designs harnessing the brightness of the sun, like a collar necklace featuring an emerald-cut stone in canary yellow.

In the collection “Deep Time,” Louis Vuitton’s Artistic Director of Watches and Jewelry Francesca Amfitheatrof has imagined a journey that transcends mankind, considering the earth’s origins and the fascinating geology that goes with it. The collection’s tale of transformation and interconnectedness encompasses more than 170 designs and the most precious stones to date, divided into two acts (geology and life) and 16 design suites—including names like Gondwana, Volcano, Wave, Drift, Origin, Myriad, Bones, and Plants. Some still lingering in our minds are the diamond Myriad necklace and earrings featuring a captivating dimensional design, the magnificent, colored-stone Drift cocktail rings, and the aptly-named Wave necklace—a collar necklace formed from a folding wave of diamonds featuring a monogram flower and an oval cut sapphire. 

Tiffany & Co.’s “Out of the Blue” explored the magic of the sea through a thematic collection focusing on seven creatures and shapes in particular: shells, coral, jellyfish, Pisces, starfish, sea star, and star urchins. Some designs took quite literal the interpretations of their points of reference, while others simply captured the essence of the sea through elegant, memorable designs—like a pair of drop Shell earrings made of strands of emerald-cut diamonds, ending in black opals, a diamond-and-moonstone chain ending in a glimmering jellyfish of sapphire and tanzanite, and the Starfish pieces, which featured beautiful stones in blues and greens.

In search of freedom from the last few years that have weighted the world with troubles, Boucheron embraced a “more is more” aesthetic that simply said “yes” to finding joy, reflected in color, geometry, patterns, and a touch of kitsch. Recalling the bold, graphic style of Memphis artists and Pop art were earrings, necklaces, bracelets, rings, brooches, hair adornments, and clothing jewels that felt unlike anything we’ve seen in High Jewelry. A few of the most memorable pieces included a collar-like necklace made of flat discs of mother-of-pearl, mimicking the shape of giant pearl beads; designs called “clothing jewels,” like a flat onyx-and-diamond piece meant to be mounted to a garment like a pocket; and a suite of graphic, lightweight rings made from large bejeweled baubles like cubes and spheres.

Jewelry maison Repossi celebrates the 10th anniversary of its staple “Antifer” designs with a series of five new additions to the architectural collection. The motif—a rounded shape with angular points—is used with an elegant pairing of pink gold and diamonds to create pieces including a 10-band stack ring, two sizes of hoop earrings, a long, delicate chain with a diamond-crusted pendant, and a chain-link necklace.