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Master Grande Tradition

The Design Behind Diamond-Covered Watches

The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) is taking place this week in Geneva. It’s the 25th edition of the watch fair exhibiting new novelties from 16 Richemont watch maisons. We’ll be highlighting a favorite from each brand throughout the week. 

Something we’ve come to expect from the brands at SIHH is bling. But covering a watch in diamonds is more than just for the glitz, it’s typically quite a complex achievement. A few twinkly timepieces caught our eye from Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Van Cleef & Arpels.

Master Grande Tradition

The Royal Oak became the standout watch from Audemars Piguet when it debuted in 1972. Its octagonal steel bezel marked an aesthetic shift in haute horlogerie. Since then, the Royal Oak has been been transformed into new iterations, and this year, the brand introduced the Royak Oak Offshore Chronograph in perfectly and painstakingly set baguette-cut diamonds. The 44mm case edition (pictured above) is bold, brilliant, and handsomely architectural.

Jaeger-LeCoultre put forth a stunning new novelty that is both watch and high jewelry. The Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Orbital features a dazzling dial and fascinating movement. The watch maison created a technique of pyramid-style gemsetting for baguette-cut diamonds arranged in rows that fan out, mimicking the rays of the rising sun. And the sun here is represented by an orbital tourbillon, its rotating carriage more brilliant than the shine of the diamond-covered dial and case.

Tourbillon Orbital from Jaeger-LeCoultre

The historic Cadenas watch plays a recurring role this week at SIHH, presented by Van Cleef & Arpels. Part bangle and part icon, the feminine timepiece is romantic, symbolic, and understated. It was first designed in 1935 and rumored to be inspired by the Duchess of Windsor. Our favorite of the newest models is the Cadenas Sertie Bracelet Or watch in white gold, diamonds, and mother-of-pearl. The style of the double snake bracelet is reminiscent of the original, and the assorted pattern of gems set above the dial reminds us of dew drops. It just may be elegance defined.

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