Watches and Wonders 2023: Chanel, Panerai, Ulysse Nardin, More

A host of new timepieces in black and white were introduced in Chanel’s “Interstellar” capsule, of which it was hard to choose just one favorite. New to the maison’s J12 line were multiple iterations like the J12 X-Ray Star with diamonds, white gold, and sapphire crystal, the J12 Eclipse Box set (a seven-timepiece set inspired by the movement of an eclipse), and the J12 Hyper Cybernetic—a black body with a partially pixelated design made from diamonds. There are new takes on the Première watch that includes a model made to look like a playfully-chic robot, the Code Coco Cybergold cuff wristwatch, and the Boyfriend Cyberdata model with a rectangular case and a decorative dial mirroring a network of circuits made from 54 tiny diamonds, completed with a glossy black quilted calfskin strap.

Panerai reimagined its “Radiomir” collection through several models offering modernized tributes to the original design, first patented in 1916, using a radium-based technology for self-illuminating qualities. These latest editions include the Radiomir Annual Calendar, the Radiomir California PAM, the Radiomir Quaranta in Goldtech (a material developed by the brand incorporating platinum and copper for a reddish hue), and our favorite—the Radiomir Otto Giorni. Utilitarian but elegant, the Otto Giorni is reminiscent of the military watch by which it was informed, offering a retro-feeling look with its calf leather strap and brushed steel case in a rounded square shape. Available in a muted hue of brown and an ecru blue, the model features a hand-wound mechanical movement developed by Panerai, and a degradé face with luminous numerals, indicating hours and minutes, and small seconds at 9 o’clock.

Several debuts from Piaget caught our eye, among them being the Malachite Dial Sautoir—a watch masquerading as a fine piece of jewelry. A long dual chain in rose gold holds tiny emerald beads and brilliant cut diamonds leading to a central cabochon Zambian emerald measuring at 25.38 carats. Below hangs a 27 x 22mm oval dial in green malachite, which is surrounded by a glittering halo and holds a waterfalling tassel of more stones. Of note were other jewelry timepieces, like the trio of Hidden Treasures cuff watches featuring shimmering bracelets revealing minimalist dials in opal and turquoise, and the Palace Décor Dial Sautoir featuring rose gold, quartz, and diamonds.

Since 2001, Ulysse Nardin has been toying with innovation and aesthetics with each new iteration of its Freak timepiece—an unprecedented design with no dial, no crown, and no traditional watch hands. Introduced this year, the Freak ONE is the latest iteration of the model, which is powered by unusual technology like a bezel and locker time function, the house’s own Grinder winding system (which captures power through the wearer’s movements), and an intricate minute bridge that carries the gear train. This futuristic mechanism features a satin-finished titanium case, a rose gold bezel and details, and an ultra-durable ballistic rubber strap, which is interchangeable with options like a black matte one or an alligator leather variant.