Watches and Wonders 2023: Vacheron Constantin, Hublot, Zenith, and More

Two timepieces from Hublot caught our eyes for their expert innovative designs. The Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon is impressive for its lightweight body (only 68 grams) and technical features. Limited to just 50 pieces, the model has been made from a unique blend of carbon fiber and Texalium, which displays a skeletonized movement with a suspended tourbillon and micro-rotor, both manufactured in-house. Meanwhile, the Big Bang Unico introduced a new square-shaped design to “The Shaped Collection.” The timepiece stuns with an all-clear crystal sapphire version (also available in two ceramic iterations), where the inner workings of the house’s HUB1280 self-winding chronograph with flyback movement are laid bare for all to see. With a 72-hour power reserve and a case measuring 42 mm, the crystal sapphire model comes with a transparent rubber strap to match.

Of Vacheron Constantin’s latest, one design in particular still lingers in our minds. A feat of technicality and beauty is Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication—a timepiece featuring the maison’s newest movement and boasting 11 complications. With just one model made, this unique edition features a dual-sided design meant to be passed down for generations. On the face side, one will find features like hours and minutes, a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar with retrograde date, day and month indicators, and moon phases, while the back holds an intricate celestial chart with sideral hour indications and a tourbillon. Made from 18K white gold and a dial of hand-blasted silver, the 33.3mm case is accompanied by a hand-stitched, dark blue Mississippiensis alligator strap.

Zenith’s ongoing “Pilot” collection has been completely reimagined for the present moment—seen through models like the Big Date Flyback timepiece. The 42.5mm watch features a new version of the brand’s El Primero 3600 caliber column-wheel chronograph with a flyback function, specially designed for the model, which comes in options of stainless steel or black ceramic. Forgoing a classic look for a contemporary utilitarian one, the pilot’s watch holds displays hours, minutes, and seconds with a big date indicator at 6 o’clock and SuperLuminova SLN C1 technology for optimum readability.

The first self-winding chronograph by A. Lange & Sohne made its debut this year. Bearing notes from its point of origin, the Odysseus, the Odysseus Chronograph is at once sporty and elegant, featuring a stainless-steel body and a smooth black dial with brass details. Constructed with the durability to carry over from office attire and social outings to sports activities, the timepiece measures 42.5mm, and has functions to indicate hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds with stop seconds; date and day displays, a chronograph with central seconds, and holds a 50-hour power reserve.