During Milan Design Week this month, leading performance brand Under Armour, Inc. joined forces with UNLESS, Inc., the world’s first all-plant, zero-plastic regenerative fashion brand. Within a spirited, sustainability-focused show, the Under Armour x UNLESS collection was revealed. Standing as a beacon of light at the global design event, the collaborative presentation imparted to a diverse array of creative fields the new, expansive possibilities within product creation. Within the wondrous space, visitors were led on a voyage through the development of fashion-forward regenerative apparel, and raised a toast to the future of sustainability at a vivacious cocktail party.
As the transformative experience unfolded, Whitewall had the opportunity to speak with Eric Liedtke, Co-Founder and CEO of UNLESS, Inc. The dedicated visionary shared what it takes to be a leader in regenerative fashion, embodying hope and goodness in the world when we need it most.
Portrait courtesy of Eric Liedtke.
Courtesy of Under Armour and UNLESS.
WHITEWALL: What inspired this collaboration between Under Armour and UNLESS Collective, and why debut it during Fuorisalone?
ERIC LIEDTKE: The inspiration for the collaboration was to show the world that a partnership can go further together than alone. I think the model of UNLESS has always been to prove the promise of regenerative fashion. That’s what we’ve done from a model standpoint for four years. When we were acquired by Under Armour, the model also was about partnering with people to sell that to their audiences as well. I think there’s a third one to this, which is a B2B opportunity.
“The inspiration for the collaboration was to show the world that a partnership can go further together than alone,”
Eric Liedtke
We dream of a world where, as we start to prove what regenerative fashion is, consumers will start to look for us as a leader in this space, whether it be with Under Armour or with Supreme or somebody else. We can then be a solution and provide that level of authenticity and credibility on products for everyone in the industry. Under Armour is a statement of intent that we plan to do more with and lead with. But I think there’s a nice balance here of a pioneering brand with an established brand.
Sustainability-Focused Innovation in the Under Armour x UNLESS Collection
Courtesy of Under Armour and UNLESS.
WW: Can you walk us through this material and how unique it is?
EL: It’s a series of materials. The buttons have been innovated here, the closure systems of a mechanical stretch with latex rubber. For the materials on the shoe, which use coconut husks and plant-based leathers, we’ve partnered with Natural Fiber Welding, and used natural rubber latex on the bottom of shoes. Natural Fiber Welding is a startup innovator with plant-based polymers in Illinois, America. So it’s a series of different materials that we’re bringing together both from an innovation standpoint and from an off-the-shelf standpoint.
WW: UNLESS has been a leader in regenerative design. What challenges have you faced in applying this to high performance apparel?
EL: Regenerative, by definition, is made with plant-based materials only. No plastics, no petroleum-based products whatsoever. 70% of the industry is made from that, and all performance products are made from polyester or petroleum-based products. Therefore, we set out to be the first 100% plant-based fashion brand. We did that while oriented towards skate, surf, and snow. A, because those athletes are at the edge of culture and typically lead trends. B, because the product they look for is a little bit more streetwear or lifestyle oriented. We’re able to make that with solutions that are readily available.
“We set out to be the first 100% plant-based fashion brand,”
Eric Liedtke
Our partnership with Under Armour gives us the opportunity now to build performance-based solutions for polyurethane foam, glues, stretch, prints and dyes that we currently don’t have available to us because they haven’t been invented yet.
Inspiring and Evolving the Industry at Milan Design Week
Courtesy of Under Armour and UNLESS.
Courtesy of Under Armour and UNLESS.
WW: How do you see and define the success of such an endeavor in the industry in general and for Under Armour in particular?
EL: I’ve got very clear goals. We are here at Design Week because we want to inspire designers to help us innovate the solutions to the current plastic crisis that we’re in. I think we’re signaling a sign of hope in a time that we need hope and we need a vision of goodness in our lives. We could hang our heads at the problem of plastic penetration in our bodies. But I think when we do a product like this, and we create these solutions, we’re looking to actually create an inflection point for the industry so that it can systematically change the industry.
“We want to inspire designers to help us innovate the solutions to the current plastic crisis that we’re in,”
Eric Liedtke
I won’t rest until the industry is converted from petroleum to plants and I think that starts with UNLESS, it starts with Under Armour, and it extends to the greater industry. But we have to create consumer advocacy. We have to tell our story of regeneration to your consumers and everybody else’s so we do this together.
Courtesy of Under Armour and UNLESS.
Courtesy of Under Armour and UNLESS.
