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Luma Tower imagined by Frank Gehry

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22-15

Courtesy of Issey Miyake.

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Courtesy of Givenchy.

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Courtesy of Reese Cooper.

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Courtesy of Sean Suen.

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Courtesy of Sulvam.

Brands at Paris Men’s Fashion Week shared their latest collections for the Spring/Summer 2023 season. Here, you’ll find the latest details from Givenchy, Issey Miyake, Reese Cooper, Sean Suen, and Sulvam.







For his first standalone ready-to-wear men’s show, Matthew M. Williams, the Creative Director of <a href="https://www.givenchy.com/us/en-US/homepage">Givenchy</a>, fused traditional Parisian sartorial traditions with technical possibilities of contemporary arts and subcultures; the Jamaican musician Alkaline scored and influenced the show. Blazers and coats were swelled in volume, trousers were ripped at the knees, blousons and shorts were patchworked, and varsity and shell jackets sported lightweight leather. The classic muted ivories, blacks, and grays were accented with Givenchy logos, printed nylon, camouflage prints, metallic silver and green accessories, and layered pops of mint green. Speaking on the show, Williams has said: “It’s a dialogue with the time and culture that shape the way men dress today and tomorrow: the way new generations embrace and evolve the archetypes and dress codes of the past through their own progressive outlook.”





<a href="https://www.isseymiyake.com/en/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Issey Miyake</a>’s newest collection, “Flowers and Vases,” took inspiration from these two objects in form, material, and people. Pleated, twisted, and layered silhouettes were alternately straight and swooping, while lightweight allowed for easy folding, rounding, or stark yet subtly curved definition. The show itself was directed by Rachid Ouramdane, the director of Théâtre National de Chaillot, and was cast from the acrobat collective Compagnie XY. The wearers were as dynamic as their clothes, often accented by organic touches like pleats running from sleeve to sleeve in resemblance of leaf veins, or pockets fashioned upside down in resemblance of a budding bloom. Timeless whites and blacks contrasted with rich botanical greens and purples and earthier yellows and browns.





<a href="https://reese-cooper.com">Reese Cooper</a>’s runway show, “Seed and Soil,” fittingly took place at the Jardin des Plantes. Echoing natural growth cycles and the brand’s own “grassroots” evolution, the show occurred over three parts representing soil, water, and light. Classic Reese Cooper silhouettes and hues on suits, trousers, shorts, and jackets were enriched with fine wool, asymmetrical zippers, and modular pockets which were both technically innovative and wholly pragmatic. A cinchable nylon series debuted on bungee-corded trench coats, jackets, and tops. The brand’s signature varsity jacket was accented with chenille patches and intricate embroidery evocative of the Jardin.





Through its purely monochromatic tones and nearly sharp lines, the <a href="https://www.seansuen.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Sean Suen</a> Spring/Summer 2023 collection represented the physical and psychic limbo of discomfort into which people fall during hangovers. At the same time, it was an affirmation of comfort: there is no need to constantly remain so sharp; the brand found its own order in this drunken chaos through unrestrained garments which free the body through fine knits and lace, weightless silks and satins, and flowing cottons and linens which softly wrap around the wearer. These tops, blousons, and pants were so extended in length and interwoven with ribbons and each other that they blurred the line between nightgowns and formal wear, all the while upholding the brand’s commitment to excellence in tailoring.





For its new collection, <a href="https://www.sulvam.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Sulvam</a> sought completion in uncompleted design. Designs were made of images drawn to the pattern, and excess fabric cuttings were used as decoration and reinforcement. In signature bright and metallic blue, purple, and gold hues offset by classic blacks and whites, the materials and prints used bestowed all of the pieces with a seamless rhythm: flowing gabardine coats, diagonally lined jacquard jackets and pants, rayon shirts, scarred horse leather vests and shorts, and twill and waterproof nylon outerwear were as neatly tailored as they were yielding, both melding with the body and freeing it to move and feel the breeze, a wasteless sartorial excellence as strong as it was gentle.

Paris Menswear SS23: Givenchy, Issey Miyake, Sulvam, and More

Fashion

Here, you’ll find the latest details from Givenchy, Issey Miyake, Reese Cooper, Sean Suen, and Sulvam.

Paris Menswear SS23: Givenchy, Issey Miyake, Sulvam, and More - Whitewall

Givenchy

Issey Miyake

Sulvam

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Selen Ozturk was born in Istanbul and raised in the Bay Area. She was educated in painting at the Rhode Island School of Design and in philosophy at the University of California, Berkeley. Her recent publications include Monday Journal, Spring Journal, Bright Lights Film Journal, and the Penn Review of Philosophy. She is an editor at BUJ (Berkeley). Her upcoming projects include a monograph on Paolo Soleri to be developed at the Bread Loaf Environmental Writers’ Conference in June 2022. She lives in San Francisco.

Selen Ozturk

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Dior

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Dior&#8217;s men&#8217;s collection was presented in Paris three days ago, featuring inspirations between England and France. 


Tranquil and Transformative, Dior Men SS23 Blooms Between Normandy and Sussex - Whitewall

Kim Jones

Paris Fashion Week

Dior's men's collection was presented in Paris three days ago, featuring inspirations between England and France.

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Eliza Jordan is a journalist living in New York City. With experience in radio stations, recording studios, public relations firms, and more, she now spends her time exploring and communicating culture. As the Senior Editor of Whitewall, she's shared conversations with designers, artists, and tastemakers around the globe, reporting nationally and internationally in cities like Bangkok, Cartagena, London, Mexico City, Paris, Shanghai, Stockholm, and Tokyo. She vehemently welcomes new travel experiences and odd conversations.

Eliza Jordan

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Eichberg Hall, SCAD

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SCAD begins a new chapter after 40 years, revealing new creative programming around the globe.


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SCAD, Ruskin Hall

SCAD begins a new chapter after 40 years, revealing new creative programming around the globe.

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Christian Dior

The traveling retrospective detailing 70 years of fashion history is on view at the Brooklyn Museum from September 10–February 20, 2022.


Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams - Whitewall

The traveling retrospective detailing 70 years of fashion history is on view at the Brooklyn Museum from September 10–February 20, 2022.

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How an ongoing interest in art inspires innovation and collaboration at Vilebrequin.

Roland Herlory on Five Decades of Vilebrequin - Whitewall

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Courtesy of Dimoregallery.

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For the Milan Salone del Mobile 2022, Dimoregallery presents “Orrizzonti.”

Exhibitions

Dimoregallery: Orrizzonti - Whitewall

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Nicolas Party in his studio, photo by Steve Benisty.

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Nicolas Party in his studio

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