As the lights dim on Paris Fashion Week, Whitewall considers meaningful and magnificent innovations to last a lifetime by Miu Miu, Sacai, Peter Do, Chanel, and Louis Vuitton.
Miu Miu’s Sleek and Sincere Spring/Summer 2025 Runway with Artist Goshka Macuga
“Salt Looks Like Sugar” was the enigmatic title of Miu Miu’s Spring/Summer 2025 runway, further evolving Miuccia Prada’s tremendous partnerships with the most forward-thinking female creatives of our time. An enveloping catwalk activation by Goshka Macuga—a deft echoing of the artist’s Art Basel Paris 2024 installation—raised the curtain on “The Truthless Times” newspaper production. Juxtaposed with a cinematic short film and digital printing press scenography spotlighting the spread of misinformation, VIP attendees were offered pure authenticity in fashion. An innocent white cotton dress commenced the story of soulful rebirth, and a brilliant partnership between Miu Miu and Petit Bateau met our yearning to return to the classics in a fresh light. The presentation brimmed with luminaries like Willem Dafoe, Hilary Swank, Cara Delevingne, and Alexa Chung wearing new Miu Miu uniforms: silk exhibiting as nylon, draped chemisette cotton dresses, and sweaters wrapped in novel rhythms around the torso.
Sacai Offers Generously Offers “Something to Remember” in Paris
Chitose Abe, the visionary founder and designer of Sacai, generously offered “Something to Remember” with the ravishing Spring/Summer 2025 collection. In honor of trailblazing early creations, Abe looked deeply into her brave and skillful past to mold the utopian garments of the future. An adoration of the maison’s luxurious originals, including the agile trench coat, nurturing jackets, and a sweet spot for ruffles and pleats, led the way for composite masterpieces. The noteworthy hunting jacket, infused with chiffon inserts, united the earthy and the elegant. A timeless navy blazer brimmed with articulate ruffles, underscoring any given gesture, and iconic MA1 jackets and blouse-pant innovations were delightfully deconstructed to last a lifetime.
Peter Do’s Gloriously “Grounded” Collection and Bespoke Palette Created with Philip Huang
A gloriously “Grounded” collection ruled the Peter Do Spring/Summer 2025 catwalk, saluting yesterday and sauntering proudly into tomorrow with insightful tailoring and softened fabrics that recalled the universal motif of crushed paper. The esteemed Creative Director unearthed the flowers from his personal sketchbook to bloom across see-through Italian jersey dresses, with rigorous doses of lamination and embroidery for tactile splendor. The latest “186” line took into consideration every hour of the week—and every melodic or sharp human gesture therein—with mix-and-match garments of custom technical satin. Do and Philip Huang together revealed a bespoke palette of natural colorways, expertly crafted in traditional fashion by artisans of Sakon Nakhon, Thailand, in celebration of the Earth’s marvelous tones and textures.
Chanel’s Ode to Freedom with a Live Performance by Heroine Riley Keough
This week in Paris, within the ascending Nave of the Grand Palais, Chanel’s Creation Studio weaved a fiercely feminine and liberating Spring/Summer 2025 Ready-to-Wear collection. As the illustrious Grand Patron of the enchanting, landmark space, Chanel embraced its aviary elements and placed a precious birdcage at its heart. Radiating with a warm memory of Gabrielle Chanel’s charming birds, gifted to her by her seamstress, a graceful and buoyant ballet-like collection unfolded. Alongside new shapes and textures in the maison’s beloved creations, such as the little black dress and the quilted bag, a colorful parade of chiffon capes, embroidered gossamer shirt dresses, sequined denim, and pastel tweeds were as fresh and effortless as baby’s breath. Bold aviator jackets enhanced by Peter Pan collars were energized by magnificent airwomen of yore, and actress Riley Keough’s live performance of Prince’s “When Doves Cry” immersed us in the house’s ode to freedom for all.
Louis Vuitton’s Art as Life Universe Illuminated by Laurent Grasso Paintings
Nicolas Ghesquière, the ever-inspired Artistic Director of Women’s Collections at Louis Vuitton, unveiled a patchwork of tender and tenacious looks for Spring/Summer 2025 in Paris. Atop a soaring runway collaging the maison’s opulent trunks, models donned garments with inherent duality, preparing mind, body, and soul for the cross-cultural voyage ahead. Geometric patterns and perceptive tailoring infused all with a forward momentum, and delicate fabrics offered light as air wearability. Each and every look presented was both pristine and poetic, intermingling the dark and the light for multi-dimensional feminine prowess. A masterful collaboration with artist Laurent Grasso debuted paintings of the Studies into the Past series cascading across singular day to night ensembles, while the musical stylings of Jamie XX and new album “In Waves” lulled guests into a magnetic art as life universe.