How Nigora Tokhtabayeva Honors Craftsmanship, Empowerment, and Heritage with Tabayer

Nigora Tokhtabayeva spent her childhood in Uzbekistan, where jewelry was not just decorative, but deeply symbolic. “Amulets and talismans represented protection and guardianship, especially within family traditions,” she told Whitewall. “This profoundly shaped my understanding of jewelry as more than just adornment—it was a connection to heritage and the people we love.” 

In 2021, Tokhtabayeva dialed into this perspective and created a contemporary label named Tabayer to realize a new line of meaningful jewelry. “I wanted to create a universal symbol of protection that transcends religion or culture—a symbol that could resonate with all people,” she added. The company’s founding collection, “Oera,” set the stage for all that followed, filled with sculptural pieces inspired by ancient symbols of protective objects. For “Oera,” Tokhtabayeva’s starting point was Inanna’s Knot, an ancient Mesopotamian symbol of fertility and protection, realized in 18-karat yellow gold and diamonds. 

Whitewall spoke with Tokhtabayeva about craftsmanship, materials, and inspiration, as well as the importance of ethically sourced diamonds and gemstones compliant with the Kimberley Process and Fairmined-certified gold. 

Inspiration Found in Tabayer

WHITEWALL: You grew up in Uzbekistan and mentioned that your father, an architect, played a significant role in shaping your understanding of design, structure, and form. What other inspirational touchpoints were found around you?

NIGORA TOKHTABAYEVA: The vibrant textiles, intricate craftsmanship in everyday objects, and the strong sense of community all played a role in shaping my vision. Central Asian art, especially its deep connection to nature and tradition, always captivated me. Food, family gatherings, and the way everything was interwoven with meaning gave me an appreciation for how beauty and utility can coexist in harmony.

WW: You’ve said that Tabayer is “a vision of jewelry not as ornament but as a conduit between the interior and exterior world”—more of an object of guardianship than possession. Why was this important for the brand’s ethos?

NT: I see jewelry as a form of communication—a way to bridge the inner self and the outer world. It holds personal meaning, often tied to memories, relationships, or significant life moments. This is why I prefer to view it not as mere decoration, but as something more profound. Jewelry can be a protective shield or a reminder of personal values, symbolizing strength and connection.

Creating a Contemporary “Oera”

WW: For “Oera,” inspiration was found in Inanna’s Knot. What about this object spoke to you? 

NT: Inanna’s Knot resonated with me because of its historical significance as a symbol of fertility and protection. Its timeless relevance made it the perfect starting point for Tabayer’s first collection. I wanted to take something ancient and meaningful, and reinterpret it in a way that could speak to modern audiences. This motif felt universal in its themes, yet personal in its history, which Tabayer strives to capture.

WW: Tabayer pieces are made of responsible materials, including ethically sourced diamonds and gemstones compliant with the Kimberley Process and Fairmined-certified gold—an assurance initiative by the Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM). Then, each piece is handcrafted by artisanal, family-owned workshops that are all members of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC). How does committing to these practices help improve the quality of life of artisanal miners and their environments?

NT: By adhering to the highest standards of ethical sourcing, we are able to positively impact the lives of artisanal miners and their communities. The ARM’s Fairmined certification ensures that the miners are paid fairly, work under safe conditions, and that the environment is respected. This approach supports sustainable development, allowing miners to benefit from education, healthcare, and infrastructure improvements, all while protecting the ecosystems they work in.

A Film on Fair-Mined Colombian Gold

WW: During New York Fashion Week, we went to a film screening of Tabayer’s, which showed a behind-the-scenes look at mining gold in Colombia. Why is sourcing only fair-mined gold critical for you?

NT: Supporting fair-mining, whether through panning or extraction, ensures that these practices are carried out sustainably, benefiting not only the miners and their families but also preserving the ecosystems they depend on. Fairmined certification helps improve working conditions, provide education, and support the circular economy, allowing mining communities to thrive in a responsible and ethical way.

WW: Heirloom jewelry can become personal treasures that tell the stories of your family, but holding on to a piece of jewelry for decades can also be an act of sustainability. How are you thinking of Tabayer jewelry as a piece that can carry a woman through her lifetime, and into the next?

NT: I design Tabayer jewelry with timelessness in mind. Each piece is crafted to be cherished over a lifetime, and ideally, passed down through generations. The craftsmanship, materials, and symbolism ensure that the jewelry is not only durable but meaningful, creating a sense of connection between the past, present, and future. This is what makes Tabayer pieces sustainable—both in their physical longevity and emotional resonance.

Heirlooms Inside Nigora Tokhtabayeva’s Jewelry Box

WW: Do you treasure any heirlooms? 

NT: One of the most significant pieces I own is a pair of ruby earrings passed down from my grandmother. They represent protection and strength, both in their symbolism and in the history they carry. Each heirloom piece in my collection has a story, connecting me to my ancestors and reminding me of the values and traditions they held dear. This connection is something I hope to pass along through Tabayer’s creations as well.

WW: You’ve said that you’ve been inspired by the work of artists like Alexander Archipenko, Isamu Noguchi, Barbara Hepworth, and Eve Hesse. How has your vision of jewelry been shaped by art?

NT: Art has been a huge influence on my approach to jewelry design. Artists like Archipenko, Noguchi, Hepworth, and Hesse have an incredible ability to transform form into something powerful and abstract, yet grounded in reality. Their work shows that simplicity and boldness can exist together, which I’ve tried to bring into Tabayer. I’m particularly inspired by the sculptural forms they create, and their exploration of negative space and organic shapes, all of which play a role in my designs.