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Berluti: Alessandro Satori uses genealogy and evolution as Muse

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Beruti’s latest fall/winter 2013 menswear collection, designed by Alessandro Sartori, takes inspiration from genealogy, evolution, and the outdoors. Held appropriately at the Museum of Natural History in Paris, Sartori presented primarily three-piece suits in luxuriously dramatic fabrics, such as four-, five-, and six-ply cashmere, mohair, cheviot wool, and angora. Modern design and lines were lent to the tailoring with tapered ankles, full hip trousers, long, single-breasted jackets, and single buttons. What makes this collection special are the treatments Sartori instills upon the fabrics and textiles. Repeatedly washed leather creates a waxed cotton look, over-processed nubuck resembles aged patina, and cashmere felt is combined with angora, all creating a completely different aesthetic than their origins. This transition offers a message of change and creates dynamic, new looks.

Major highlights of the collection include the waxed kangaroo leather trench coat lined in cashmere, the water repellant beaver hat, and a waxed weekender bag. Known for their exquisite footwear, Berluti introduced a derby shoe in punched leather, which is available in three colors, and a wax textured knee high boot.

Since 1895, successive generations of the Berluti family have developed not only an exceptional savoir-faire in mastering shape, leather, and patina, but also a profound understanding of the foot. The result is shoes of unrivalled comfort and elegance. More than a maker of exquisite luxury shoes, Berluti has always epitomized a certain way of life. It was only natural, then, that it should explore new domains, notably leather goods in 2005 and henceforth ready-to-wear with the arrival of artistic director Alessandro Sartori.

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Kelly Wearstler

THE WINTER EXPERIENCE ISSUE
2023

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Paris Men’s Fashion Week is in full swing, with presentations from Berluti, Acne Studios, Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens, and Issey Miyake.
In this week's edition of Brand New, we're looking at the newest releases from Berluti, Diptyque, Prada, Swarovski, and more.
Here, you’ll find the latest details from Brioni, Dsquared2, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Kiton, and Zegna.

SUBSCRIBE TO NEWSLETTER

Go inside the worlds
of Art, Fashion, Design,
and Lifestyle.