Milan Fashion Week Shows from Prada, Fendi, Max Mara, and More
Milan Fashion Week is underway, filled with brands introducing new collections for the Spring/Summer 2024 season. Here, we’re taking a look at what’s new from Prada, Fendi, Brunello Cucinelli, Etro, and Max Mara.
Courtesy of Prada.
Prada’s Graceful Nonchalance for SS24
The latest line from Prada expanded on the work of its co-founder, Mario Prada, and his interest in creating luxurious objects. Informed by his widespread travels, Prada grew a reputation for creating items and accessories made of Asian silks, Bohemian crystals, precious leathers, and other materials gathered from abroad. It was this culmination of cultured luxury that we saw walking the runway, imbuing a certain graceful nonchalance through looks that echoed the past but were ultimately modern. There were gauzy Haze dresses in ultra-lightweight silk, blazers with sloped shoulders and elongated sleeves with open cuffs, tiny tailored shorts, crystal patterns and embellishments, patchwork leather pieces, and styles that featured overlays of fringe. Some silhouettes captured the boxy boyishness of 1920s styles, while others were belted at the waist and offered sharp hourglass proportions. Special for Spring/Summer 2024, as well, was an interpretation of Mario Prada’s 1913 handbag—a silk moiré evening bag with a frame clasp—into iterations for the current moment, including oversized tote versions in leather and re-nylon.
Courtesy of Fendi.
Milan Fashion Week Debuts from Fendi
Kim Jones’s Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear collection for Fendi found two ideas converging: first through a walk in the picturesque city of Rome, and second, in the confidence and chicness of women who only dress for themselves. The new garments harness a duality offering both the elegance one would expect from Fendi and a certain freedom in imperfection that comes with true confidence. Silhouettes are comfortable and wearable, with clean shapes updated through angular, asymmetric, or geometric details—like off-set waistband fastens, wrapped and twisted overlays, single-shoulder cut-outs, and color-blocked fabrics. A palette of powder blue, soft gray, and warm tones like red, yellow, and brown is seen on dresses in softly fitted shapes, outerwear with crisp lines, and suiting separates with masculine proportions. Looks were styled with colorful gloves, several styles of footwear and clutches, and sleek hair featuring adornments highlighting a sharp middle part.
Courtesy of Max Mara.
Max Mara Celebrates the Women’s Land Army
Max Mara’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection, “An Army of Women,” looked to the English Women’s Land Army of the 1940s—an inspiring coalition of women from all walks of life who banded together to feed the nation during war. A utilitarian elegance alluding to the styles of the time has been refreshed for the modern woman—one inspired by the craze of urban gardening, yet walks the sidewalk in strappy heels, laptop in tow. Seen descending a runway surrounded by an installation of greenery during Milan Fashion Week was a succession of monochrome looks in navy, camel, khaki, and army green, joined by bursts of fuchsia, Kelly green, and mustard. There were militant jackets over knitted rompers, work suits belted at the waist and styled with popped collars, oversized shirting with rolled-up cuffs, skirts with pull-over windbreakers, and a series of backless sundresses inspired by vintage gardening aprons.
Courtesy of Etro.
Etro’s Milan Fashion Week Debuts Say No to Rules
Etro invited us to an imaginary wonderland for its Spring/Summer 2024 collection, featuring the house’s abundant patterns and worldly influences. A bounty of textures and visuals swirled together in a gorgeously dizzying manner, including striped knits, paisley prints, polka dots, octopuses, and blooming florals; weathered leather, crocheted flowers, exotic silks, and intricate embroideries. Shapes and fabrications played with notions of what should be and what could be, combining unexpected items like eveningwear silhouettes imagined in denim, sporty jackets with effeminate dresses, tailoring in monstrous proportions, and voluminous cargo pants with fitted tops. Looks were styled from head to toe with pieces like oversized, ornate earrings and necklaces, handbags with special detailing, protective-style eyewear, striped knit hats, strappy platform heels, and an eye-catching take on a flat, which was frequently worn with printed socks.
Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli.
Brunello Cucinelli Brings Equilibrium to Milan Fashion Week
The Spring/Summer 2024 debuts from Brunello Cucinelli focused on finding equilibrium. A balance of opposites was the key to finding this steadiness, achieved through a selection of gentle neutrals and the joining of differing forces—like feminine and masculine, minimal and ornate, and beauty and function. The brand’s reputation for sartorial excellence was highlighted in shapes rooted in the classic and timeless, yet left room for fun in the act of styling and getting dressed. More formal items were paired with pieces that dressed them down and vice-versa, presenting a wardrobe with limitless possibilities for all occasions. Suiting ensembles were remixed in various shapes and forms, including options like tailored shorts or wide-legged trousers, textured or metallic materials, and printed shirting. Knit dresses and vests were paired over blouses with bell sleeves, long skirts were worn with tees and classic sneakers, loungewear knits were elevated for wearing out, and looks with shorter hems featured sheer knee socks with kitten heel slingbacks.
