The best of Milan Fashion Week was a luxurious occasion, replete with everything from clutched pearls to trompe l’oeil. Here, we dive into the best looks proffered by Margiela, Moschino, Tod’s, Jil Sander, Gucci, and Marni.
MM6 Maison Margiela Ascribes New Meaning to Quiet Luxury
Courtesy of MM6 Maison Margiela.
For this year’s Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear collection, Martin Margiela looked to his years at Hermès (1997 to 2003). The result is an elegant, calm sort of quiet luxury; succinctly put, the design team noted that they wanted to create “a classy feel, and to look dressy with minimal effort.” Against the backdrop of a quiet, carpeted space cast in soft lighting, models donned camionneur bodysuits and blouses with deep V-necks. There were surprises, too. Many pieces are not what they seem at first glance: cardigans become capes thanks to slits under the armhole, and raincoats materialize in mustard-colored denim. Clothing is open-ended, with new meaning ascribed to attire with an elevated feel.
Moschino Pays Homage to Its Founder
Courtesy of Moschino.
Adrian Appiolaza was named creative director of Moschino a mere three weeks ago, following the tragic and untimely death of predecessor Davide Renne. For his debut with the label, Appiolaza decided to pay homage to the House of Moschino and its founder, Franco Moschino. “It’s been a very intense journey,” he said backstage. “My first input when I decided to take this opportunity was to go to Franco’s universe and bring it to today. I went to the archive and picked iconic points of Franco.”
Franco Moschino was infamous for his emphasis on peace and love, and the label’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection doubles down on these values. The archive is treated as a living, breathing entity, with items of the past revisited with care; it is as if Franco Moschino is an active collaborator. Clutched pearls and lingerie appear on the runway, with Franco Moschino’s trompe l’oeil and trickeries ever-present. Moschino’s signature cloud print, first shown in 1985, appears once more, and slogan pieces promote the aforementioned principles of peace and love.
Franco Moschino used to say, “wear what you want, not what you should.” Backstage, Appiolaza mused, “I want to keep the theatricality that he was known for but bring it in a more balanced offer.”
Tod’s Epitomizes the Italian Lifestyle with Luxe Cashmere, Wool, and Leather
Courtesy of Tod’s.
Matteo Tamburini is yet another creative director making his debut. Tod’s has always epitomized the Italian lifestyle, and the label’s newest collection certainly functions as a précis of this ethos. At Milan’s largest tram depot, models adorned leather trenches, oversized field jackets, masculine coats in double-faced wool, and cigarette trousers. Cashmere and silk knitwear layered cardigans upon cardigans; high-quality raw materials found themselves in the limelight, with a color palette centered on the natural shades of leather. A playlist ranging from Bjork to Nirvana to Leonard Cohen blared in the background, yielding a show that felt nihilistic but celebratory.
Jil Sander Showcases Monochromatic Looks in Unexpected Materials and Colors
Photo by Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com. Courtesy of Jil Sander.
Against a monochromatic set of plush sage green carpet, cobalt blue speakers amplified the songs performed live by singer Mk.gee as models debuted the newest collection from Jil Sander. Husband-and-wife creative-director duo Lucie and Luke Meier returned with a resplendent set of looks: cocooning capes and shrugs, delicate deer leather and Himalayan goat fur, and leather tunics all made appearances. This is a collection with a deliberately expansive color palette, with pieces coming in cocoa, cerulean blue, pastel mint, pearl, and bright red. The looks are monochrome, accentuating the sheer volume of materials like shimmering cotton and Italian and Japanese wool. Thanks to the designers’ aptitude and formal yet whimsical construction, every piece looks effortless.
Gucci Makes a Small Subversive Gesture
Courtesy of Gucci.
For this year’s Gucci Fall/Winter collection, Sabato De Sarno set a challenge for himself: to combine “what I hate with what I love to make something new.” The result is an assortment of clothes that purportedly make a “small subversive gesture.” Languid slips, structural peacoats, and long-sleeve lace dresses all took the stage. This is only De Sorno’s second collection with Gucci, and it is clear he is specifically interested in subverting the norms of standard tailoring. The label’s equestrian traditions are given new flair, too, with polished riding boots almost coming up to the hem of models’ shorts.
Marni Alternates Between Formidable and Light-Hearted in a Papier-Mâché Cave
COURTESY OF MARNI, Photo by Giovanni Giannoni
When the time came to begin preparing for Marni’s collection this season, creative director Francesco Risso covered his studio in blank paper and forbade designers from looking at any images or references. The only influence he allowed was a Virginia Woolf quote: “If by chance you enter a paper cave, bring no clothes.” Aptly, the label’s Fall/Winter 2024 show was hosted in a cave-like tunnel under Milan’s Stazione Centrale, the walls plastered with white paper. Designs were alternately formidable and light-hearted, always with purity at their center; pockets and buttons were hidden so as to be almost invisible. Many looks were pitch-black and highly structural. A series of models carried armfuls of black hair as they walked the runway. Large spiked dresses, heaping fur coats, and prints reminiscent of The Flintstones all yielded a primitive, revelatory collection, confirming Risso is anything but predictable.
