As this week’s FENDI show commenced, a booming drum resounded with the rhythmic cadence of a military march. Dramatic swaths of silk hung loosely over the runway, pairing to yield a backdrop equal parts utilitarian and luxurious—much like the clothes on display. FENDI’s Autumn/Winter 2024 collection embraces such contradictions. Of the 53 womenswear looks the label debuted this Wednesday, each is simple and theatrical, sexed-up and subtle, traditional and subversive.
FENDI’s Winter Collection Flaunts Its Artisanal Prowess
Asymmetrical tailoring takes center stage. Thick wool coats borrow from the language of robes, casually tied and belted at the waist. Silk knitwear is so thin it forms a second skin, clinging to the wearer’s ribs. Utilitarian dresses are practical yet elegant, softened by touches of tulle and organza. This is a collection that proudly flaunts FENDI’s artisanal prowess, employing high-shine waxed finishes and the painstaking Agugliato needle-punching process. Shearlings and leathers are accompanied by sumptuous bags designed by none other than Silvia Venturini Fendi herself, ranging from baguettes to rounded shoppers.
Fendi fall/winter 2024 show, photo by Jacques Burga.
Despite its sensibility, this is a collection that doesn’t take itself too seriously. Some of Fendi’s bags, whimsically slung around models’ necks, feature Chupa Chups lollipop holders and their iconic Salvador Dalí-designed logo. Artistic Director Kim Jones cited the Blitz Kids, the New Romantics, and ‘80s-era Japanese style as influences of this collection, having spent time digging into the label’s archive circa 1984. These sources of inspiration amalgam to yield a collection that is pragmatic and playful, comfortable but smart.
Fendi fall/winter 2024 show, photo by Jacques Burga.
Kim Jones Designs Clothes That Are Meant for Movement
It is clear from the way these clothes are designed that they are not merely meant to be looked at. The woman who wears these pieces is to do something rather than be something. She can move about her day freely; she is sensible yet unrestrained. As Jones remarked, “I remember when I first met Silvia Venturini Fendi, she was wearing a very chic utilitarian suit—almost a Safari suit. That fundamentally shaped my view of what FENDI is: it is how a woman dresses that has something substantial to do. And she can have fun while doing it.”
Fendi fall/winter 2024 show, photo by Jacques Burga.
