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Max Mara F24

Best of Milan Fashion Week: Connoisseurs of Grandeur 

Milan Fashion Week debuts radiated youthful joviality and cultivated restraint, enveloping guests in the heroine’s rebellious and fantastical nature—while seducing like a forbidden apple. Here, we indulge in the come-hither runway shows of Sarawong, Etro, Max Mara, Brunello Cucinelli, Antonio Marras, and Kiton.

Erica Silverman

23 February 2024

We’re bringing you front and center to the best of Milan Fashion Week, and illuminating the noteworthy fall/winter 2024 collections of Sarawong, Etro, Max Mara, Brunello Cucinelli, Antonio Marras, and Kiton.

Sarawong’s Fall/Winter 2024-25 Collection Invokes the Poetry of William Blake 

Sarawong F24

Courtesy of Sarawong.

The star phrase in English poet William Blake’s revered work “Auguries of Innocence” (1863) was the centering heart of Sarawong’s fall/winter 2024-25 collection: “To see a world in a grain of sand, and a heaven in a wild flower, hold infinity in the palm of your hand and eternity in an hour.” From this enduring spiritual message of universal connection, Sarawong developed “Blossoms Sand,” a deeply nuanced presentation using immaculate materials and ethereal details, culminating in a provocative journey through our intimate relationship with the solid ground below and the elusive heavens above. 

Celestial floral prints and embroidery swept across elongated skirts and coats, chiffon-like dresses and bralettes, as well as crushed velvet gowns and caftans; energized by the elements of mother nature’s bounty found within ancient Dunhuang murals beside Silk Road, the shapes and textures of honeysuckles, peonies, poinsettias, and pomegranate flowers inspired angelic garments of cream, blue, green, and bronze. The far reaches of feminine beauty were explored in onyx evening wear, shimmering with sequins, provocative cut-outs, fanciful feathers, and strategic sheerness—set off by gilded and verdant strands of jewels. 

Etro Collaborates with Singer-Songwriter Miglio on a Utopian Soundtrack for the Runway 

Etro FW24

Courtesy of Etro.

Etro’s creative director Marco De Vincenzo collaborated with singer-songwriter Miglio on a bespoke soundtrack to set a beguiling tone for the co-ed fall/winter 2024-25 runway show. Drawn from the song “Techno Pastoral” of the 2023 album Futuro Splendido, the latest iteration set the tone for a utopian show offering a lavish array of day and night creations. Sleek button-down shirts with stripes, polka-dots, and abstract geometric patterns sparked intrigue in tranquil shades of blue, blush, gray, and cream; overlaid with sumptuous knits swathed across the figure like Grecian adornments, as well as with relaxed suiting, each look was a profound melding of masculine and feminine dynamism. 

An exclusive partnership with Wolford was unveiled on the otherworldly runway, as Etro’s signature paisley motifs danced across body-hugging dresses, culottes, jumpsuits, tops, and bodysuits; the pieces boasted lush artistry in rich swirls of gold, bronze, pink, and silver, collaged with sheer blouses, flowing dresses, sculptural jackets, and surreal sweaters. 

Max Mara Conjures the Seductive Power of Luminary Colette for Fall/Winter 2024 

Max Mara FW24

Courtesy of Max Mara.

“The Inner Life,” conjuring the seductive power of luminary Colette, was the potent theme of Max Mara’s fall/winter 2024 collection. In true Belle Époque fashion, Japanese-inspired silhouettes were given new life in stylish coats with generous kimono sleeves and tailored blousing. Plush cashmere meltons in alpaca and double-faced camel were expertly felted and knitted with heart-fluttering pink details, blurring the lines between a cozy cardigan and statement-making coat. 

Colette’s affinity for donning menswear was sleekly imbued into power jackets and officer coats, as well as structural calfskin bags with minimalist metallic clasps and hinges. A richly neutral palette of navy, gray, and black gave boudoir-esque slip dresses, teddies, and camisoles in tweed, flannel, and drap a brilliantly refined edge; pajama–like dresses and ankle-grazing coats studded with dark crystals allowed for dashing from private relaxation to vivid music hall performances à la the glamorous Colette.

Brunello Cucinelli Balances New Feminine Strength and Soulfulness in Milan

Brunello Cucinelli FW24 women Collection

Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli.

The Brunello Cucinelli women’s fall/winter 2024 collection charged an “Ante Litteram” savoir-faire into sophisticated garments at once organic and extravagant. A true balance of new feminine strength and masculine soulfulness was ushered into softly brushed corduroys, padded suedes and Nappa leathers, sweeping formal coats, and grainy woolens. Cosmopolitan gray and black gave way to earthy hues, with dense cream and white taking on decadent proportions. Argyle motifs in knitwear were newly shimmered with starry embellishments, while double knits with transparent tendencies were rendered serenely romantic. 

Trousers and skirts ebbed and flowed with fresh volume and varying lengths, beckoning a second glance in satin, flannel, and velvet. Old Sheffield Plate-style lamés and tassels dazzled on special occasion creations, with feathers and sequin embroidery bewitching with unparalleled grace. Collegiate style in penny loafers and derby shoes sparked youthful elegance, while handcrafted jeweled moments on accessories and evening wear evoked timeless artistry and authenticity. 

Antonio Marras Envelops Guests in the Rebellious Nature of Princess Eleonora 

Antonio Marras FW24

Photo by Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway, courtesy of Antonio Madras.

Within a fairy-tale-like set recalling a looming tower of the Middle Ages, a supernatural Antonio Marras fall/winter 2024 collection unfolded. Titled “Eleonora,” after the illustrious Princess of Sardinia during Medieval times, the runway presentation enveloped guests in the heroine’s rebellious and fantastical nature. Floral-patterned damasks and embroidered brocades in reds, golds, yellows, and blacks reflected the natural landscape beneath her feet as she hunted alongside her trusty falcons. 

Graphic check, pinstripe, and houndstooth jackets, shorts, and sweaters were paired with punk boots, lace trouser socks, and avant-garde mules. Gold-smeared wools and devoré velvets garnished opulent head-to-toe numbers, while chiffon and rose voiles lent a celestial magnificence. Capes, cargo pants, bodices, and draped white shirts were juxtaposed for a fierce contemporary embodiment of the indigenous ruler. Dedicated to the heart and mastery of the late Carmelo Tedeschi, a long-standing and singular designer of the maison, the runway glowed with an expressive air of boundless creativity. 

Best of Milan Fashion Week: Kiton Echoes the Desires of the Modern Protagonist

Kiton Donna FW24-25

Courtesy of Kiton.

The Kiton women’s fall/winter 2024-25 collection echoed the needs and desires of the modern protagonist, shifting from day to evening appointments with Italian grandeur. Whether in double cashmere or crêpe, a snow-white monochrome ensemble suits her just fine, radiating youthful joviality and cultivated restraint. Cropped jackets and billowing trousers oozed 80s sensuality, and silk meshed with cashmere resulted in supremely softened garments. 

Sporty denim beside deep blue, black, and dusty brown elicited notes of weekend luxury, while red took the cake for evening gatherings; a glossy crimson gown seduced like a forbidden apple, paired with a delightfully petite handbag for leaving all baggage behind. The passionate hue made its way onto a chic suit with a coordinating cashmere coat, as well as onto an inviting plaid offset by soothing cream. The newest aprè-ski collection boasted gray and white trousers with a heavenly marbled print, alongside outerwear that is as stately as it is protective. 

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THE WINTER EXPERIENCE ISSUE
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This season’s Milan Fashion Week united a mélange of internationally renowned designers, who took to unlikely venues like Italian tram stations to debut looks that were truly inspired. Below, we’ve compiled our personal favorites from Margiela, Moschino, Tod’s, Jil Sander, Gucci, and Marni.
Max Mara re-opens its Aspen Pop-Up in Hotel Jerôme alongside just in time for the holidays, along with dynamic events and dinners.

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