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Best of Milan Men’s Fashion Week: A Soulful Metamorphosis

On the occasion of Milan Men’s Fashion Week, brands invited the wearer to be the glorious protagonist of their own story with timeless savoir-faire. Here, Whitewall spotlights unforgettable shows from Kiton, Brunello Cucinelli, Canali, Santoni, and DSquared2.

Erica Silverman

17 January 2024

After a vibrant edition of Milan Men’s Fashion Week of Fall/Winter 2024/25 presentations this weekend, we’re reminiscing about debuts from Kiton, Brunello Cucinelli, Canali, Santoni, and DSquared2.

Kiton Revitalizes Classic Tailoring and Partners with Artist Omar Hassan

Kiton FW24

Courtesy of Kiton.

Mariano and Walter De Matteis of KNT Kiton New Textures revitalized classic tailoring with a lush Mediterranean edge—and unveiled an expressive collaboration with artist Omar Hassan. Tempting hues of tangerine, cardinal red, and turquoise washed over effortless silhouettes, imparting a thoroughly modern and tranquil narrative. The family’s iconic sartorial legacy was placed front and center in the form of chic double-breasted jackets and three-button blazers, set creatively atop elegant drawstring trousers or WD iterations—supremely crafted with a traditional front fastening, wide leg, and elastic-infused rear waistband. Must-have bomber jackets and billowing waistcoats were spotted in the finest corduroy and Shetland wool. An inspired partnership with Hassan–who spent their formative years in Milan—saw the maison’s blousons, sweatshirts, and t-shirts presented as a stunning canvas for the visionary’s bright and multidimensional brushstrokes. 

Brunello Cucinelli Offered “A Free Soul Call” for its Fall/Winter 2024 Collection

Brunello Cucinelli Fall 2024 Menswear

Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli.

Brunello Cucinelli offered “A Free Soul Call” during Milan Men’s Fashion Week, invoking robust shapes of the 1980s, tactile materials, and standout colors like lobster orange and iris purple. The brand upheld its ardent commitment to classic sophistication with a contemporary mood by way of coats featuring impeccably tailored shoulders and stately trench versions—with the utmost importance placed on comfort. Each look was seamlessly balanced, with lavish trousers, artfully patterned sweaters, elegant vests, and streamlined hiking boots. A dynamic leather jacket with a fanciful fur collar was paired with an inventive plaid suit, while a cozy, long leather jacket with a shearling collar was worn with ivory pants and supple suede shoes. Formalwear found an opulent palette in onyx, ivory, and gray—perfect for refined holiday season soirées and memorable champagne toasts. 

Canali’s “Into Nature” Presentation was an Opulent Homage to the Environment 

CANALI FW24

Courtesy of Canali.

Canali transported us with “Into Nature,” an opulent homage to mother nature’s bounty by way of elegant plaid patterns and restoring fabrics including alpaca and cashmere. The esteemed brand’s enveloping Double car coats and latest Sahariana jacket gave way to exquisite knitwear spotlighting tricot patterns reminiscent of the divine artistry of nature. Energized by Italy’s dreamlike landscapes and French writer Stendhal’s notable work “Journal du voyage dans la Brianza,” a soothing shade of green was infused into garments throughout the collection. Suits proudly bore the Prince of Wales Plaid with moments of corduroy. Canali’s vision of “outdoor tailoring” gave the Double wardrobe and its handcrafted elements a singular style. Maxi-scarves, capes, leather coin-purses, and backpacks rooted each look in the maison’s mission to imbue the modern man’s every adventure with timeless savoir-faire. 

The Sibillini Mountains of Italy Provide Stirring Groundwork for Santoni’s FW 24 Collection

Santoni FW 24

Courtesy of Santoni.

The sweeping Sibillini Mountains of Italy and the mythical Sibyl, queen of the fairies, provided stirring groundwork for Santoni’s Men’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection. On Via Montenapoleone, the Santoni showroom unveiled an experiential presentation, evoking the brand’s wondrous fairy tale in creative illustrations and digital environments. Earthy hues warmed lace-up suede ankle boots with two-tone soles, while rapturous burgundy enlivened the Limited Edition Oxfords—fit with masterful wingtips, perforations, and a fluid leather sole. Andrea moccasins dazzled with tassels and metal doubling, bringing to mind the ebb and flow of the lyrical mountain range. The 48-hours bag with double buckle handle encouraged a new year of spontaneous adventures, while the pliable backpack with stunning camouflage fabric brought the heavenly topography of the Marche region into our everyday lives. 

Best of Men’s Milan Fashion Week: The Dsquared2 Coed Collection Unfolded as a Fluid Metamorphosis in Milan 

Dsquared2 Fall Winter 24

Courtesy of Dsquared2.

Dsquared2’s Coed Collection unfolded as a fluid metamorphosis, from fair isle knits, to pony-print-leather, to kaleidoscopic jewelry. Sets of twins strutted down the runway imparting the courageous duality of the maison: both edgy and polished, from dawn to dusk. Denim appeared as if struck with snow, as well as weathered and patched for the ultimate expression of individuality. Sweatshirts with chains and jagged details were juxtaposed with distressed leather jackets and oversized fur hats. For festivities under the moon, an equally provocative face of Dsquared2 was revealed. Meticulous tailoring was spotlighted in studded chiffon shirts, flared pants in shimmering velvet, and silver sequin bombers. Tactile lurex knits were accessorized with D2 gilded hardware and metallic jewelry with supreme movement. Standout looks for women included silk jersey gowns and feather-trimmed mini dresses, inviting each wearer to be the glorious protagonist of their own story. 

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Go inside the worlds
of Art, Fashion, Design,
and Lifestyle.