While the new collections for Spring/Summer 2023 unfold as part of Milan Fashion Week, Whitewall is sharing its favorite debuts from Fendi, Brunello Cucinelli, Roberto Cavalli, Quira, and Antonio Marras.
Courtesy of Fendi.
Kim Jones’s designs for Fendi Spring/Summer 2023 womenswear turned to dualities like minimalism and eclecticism and practicality and luxury to ensure its wearers feel elevated and comfortable in all aspects of their lives. “What is particularly interesting to me about FENDI is exploring the notion of functional utility alongside femininity—because the Fendi women are strong women with full, busy lives,” said Jones. With this in mind, the collection centered loose and floating garments in elegant materializations (like satin, organza, cashmere, and shearling), juxtaposing comfortable and sporty elements with an air of effortless refinement. Saturated hues like green, cornflower blue, and bright pink accompanied more subtle ones, while looks were composed of easy layerings and pared-back accessories, like an assortment of handbags, chunky rubber platforms, and the occasional chain link choker. Looks we loved include a taupe teddy duster with split sleeves and a textural turtleneck underneath, styled with glossy green boots; a skirted business suit in gray with panels of intermingled fabrics, and an exciting play on form; and a pearly-hued gown in satin with a single strap and an airy, floating silhouette.
Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli.
Brunello Cucinelli’s collection for the female explorer took the lead from clothing archetypes associated with the avid adventurer for Spring/Summer 2023. Paired with the house’s pristine tailoring and sophisticated allure, the earthen garments it produced possessed a versatility that we could imagine exploring the African bush or strolling canal-side in a certain Italian city. Ranging from casual to evening-ready, the designs included high-waisted trousers with knit tops and sneakers, utility suits with cargo pockets, long skirts with belted jackets and wide-brimmed hats, and sparkly ensembles with strappy heels. Among our favorites were a pair of shorts and a matching jacket in glittering gray stripes, styled with a collared shirt and necktie, hiking shoes, and a beige overcoat; cargo pants and boots with a long, sheer embroidered duster; and a skirt set in intricate floral crochet, paired with a white blazer, heels, and a hat and head scarf.
Courtesy of Roberto Cavalli.
Stunning onlookers atop a reflective runway with pinpoint lighting, Roberto Cavalli’s debuts harnessed the energies of the Golden Age of cinema, Hollywood heroines, and Sicilian beauty. Sensuous styles were at once classic and entirely new age, featuring sculptural shapes that played on opposites—seen in marvelous elements like sculpted flounces, bejeweled fruit, Baroque-inspired prints, crisp peplums, and sharp cut-outs. Epitomizing the idea that the body is meant to be decorated were garments like a structural jumpsuit in snakeskin and leopard, a skirt suit with awe-inspiring slits and sculptural pleats in a print pulled from a museum wall, and a gown in black and tan with pineapples adorning gathered cut-outs down the front.
Courtesy of Quira.
In line with Quira’s mission to create garments that will one day be collectibles, the house’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection focused on the body via qualities of languidness and liquidity. Silhouettes were long, supple, and often featured slouchy bows or folds of soft drapery, imagined in fabrications ranging from crisp wool and cotton twill to silk poplin, crepe de chine, and viscose. In colors both understated and bold, the garments offered surprising twists on styles that felt comfortably familiar—like a long white dress with balloon sleeves in understated polka dots, featuring patchwork seams, a slouchy trench over a dramatic white blouse, and a suit in chartreuse with a bow-necked ribbed knit in moss, a matching leather bag, and colorful strappy heels paired with black socks.
Courtesy of Antonio Marras.
A theatrical backdrop complete with red velvet curtains and flora imbuing scenes of a pastoral landscape set the stage for the Spring/Summer 2023 designs from Antonio Marras. Exalting the magnificence of the opera and the designer’s beloved home of Sardinia, the thoughtful silhouettes called on the magic of iconic arias and imagery of glamorous prima donnas taking bows with roses being tossed at their feet, coming to fruition through sequined sparkles, rich patchworks, floral appliques, and graphic prints translating scenes of the Italian countryside. The designer’s discerning eye and more-is-more attitude combined this lush amalgamation to bring us looks like a tea-length patterned dress with a black shell bustier, worn with printed stockings and heels that laced around the ankles; a red silk suit that took notes from a kimono-style robe, worn off the shoulder to reveal a black and red lacy lingerie top; and a gown in dotted chiffon with abundant details like black sequined appliqués, delicate feathered elements, and long gloves in matching sheer.
