Milan Fashion Week Debuts by Tom Ford, Loro Piana, and More
As Milan Fashion Week has come to a close, Whitewall brings you front and center to the lively runway shows of Sunnei, Moschino, Tom Ford, Loro Piana, and Tod’s.
Sunnei Explores Modern Vulnerability at Milan Fashion Week
Sunnei founders Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo presented an invigorating Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Deftly layering familiar and cutting-edge garments, the inspired Italian menswear and womenswear label engaged their audience in a captivating conversation on vulnerability and balance in contemporary culture and fashion. A myriad of jersey-stretch pieces in colorful shades, embellished with geometric patterns, were collaged with oversized jackets and trousers. The brand’s signature stripes ebbed and flowed onto billowing shirts, pants, dresses, and bags, spotlighting the extraordinary way in which Sunnei continues to evolve yet stays ardently connected to its roots. With the theme of “see-thoroughness” echoing throughout the new collection, exquisite Japanese knitwear, an array of finely-knit shoes, and singular Cuore Di Pietra jewelry featured Sunnei’s soulful nature; avant-garde earrings appearing as heart-shaped stones were in fact skillfully made of brass, precisely sculpted to recall meaningful gemstones such as blue lapis lazuli, imparting friendship and truth, and rose onyx, the protective stone of love.
Courtesy of Moschino.
Moschino Celebrated its 40th Anniversary with a Collaborative SS24 Show
Moschino rejoiced in “40 Years of Love” with a spirited Spring/Summer 2024 presentation for Milan Fashion Week. The beloved Italian fashion house celebrated the momentous anniversary by inviting four stylists and friends of the maison to develop collections that evoked founder Franco Moschino’s whimsical and forward-thinking creations. The vivacious show was divided into four acts directed by Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, Lucia Liu, and Katie Grand, with a fifth act composed by Laura Marzadori, the esteemed concertmaster of Teatro alla Scala, and the finale dedicated to championing the Elton John Aids Foundation. Revisioned designs spanning from 1983 to 1993 revealed each creative’s unique point of view while upholding Franco’s fearless and jubilant approach to fashion. Cerf de Dudzeele united the founder’s early classics with her trademark “Cerf Style,” collaging elegant yet relaxed suiting with shining jeweled garments and accessories. Karefa-Johnson unveiled her eye-catching “NOWstalgia” — striking variations on the brand’s crocheted garments, sumptuous earrings, and patterned cowboy hats of the early 90s. Liu experimented with the soft and the strong, in true Moschino form, embellishing tailored pieces with romantic charm. Grand honored the house’s ingenious use of slogans, infusing the theme of “Loud Luxury” into provocative garments modeled by premier dancers, in a performance choreographed by Wayne McGregor, Resident Choreographer of The Royal Ballet and Artistic Director of Studio Wayne McGregor. In a festive act five climax, Marzadori played the violin to the tune of Gloria Gaynor’s “I Am What I Am,” paralleling the finale of Moschino’s Fall Winter 1986 show. The presentation came to a ceremonious close, illuminating the maison’s partnership with the Elton John Aids Foundation with limited-edition anniversary T-shirts that read “BORROW ME — WEAR ME — HUG ME — ♥️ ME,” with 100% of proceeds supporting HIV/AIDS prevention, care, and awareness.
Courtesy of Tom Ford.
Tom Ford Honors the Power of Femininity at Milan Fashion Week
Tom Ford’s Creative Director Peter Hawking debuted a scintillating Summer 2024 collection, further evolving the divine elegance and attention to luxurious detail that has become synonymous with the iconic brand. Deeply energized by the late black supermodel Donyale Luna, a dazzling muse of Richard Avedon and Andy Warhol from the 1960s through the early 70s, Hawking infused the forms and fabrics of the latest collection with a singular feminine power and magnetism. Decadent shades of ivory, rose, and lavender gave way to Persian blue, cognac brown, and jet black in an extravagant play of light and dark. Liquid gold suiting was slim and sleek, as was a majestic gilded mini dress with chic fringe, paired with sculptural bracelets. Meticulously tailored blazers and moto jackets were paired with micro shorts and skirts, allowing lustrous fabrics and riveting designs to shine. Hypnotic featherwork, see-through patterned dresses, and crocodile scale accents — from heels to glossy trench coats — imparted a sophisticated and sensual new freedom to revered classics.
Courtesy of Loro Piana.
Loro Piana Unveils a Tender Affinity with Japan for SS24
Loro Piana’s Spring/Summer 2024 women’s collection delves into a warm affinity with Japan and the country’s harmonious relationship with the world around us. Paying close attention to ma, the Japanese term for the landscape between the body and its clothing, fine garments of silk cashmere and woven linen easily embraced from head to toe. Delicate knit caps, artistic kimono-style jackets, and textural sweaters with matching pants were ideal for both relaxation and intuitive movement. Organic hues of Sencha Green, Ginger Root, Clay Teapot, and Ink Bottle made their way across quilted coats, printed dresses, and the newly proportioned Spagna jacket, all evoking the timeless forms and patterns of Bamboo, Kanji block prints, and the Shibusa aesthetic of well-balanced beauty. Accessories such as the Loom, an elegant double-handed tote, and an inaugural jewelry collection, seamlessly fusing leather and metal for modern tranquility, were gracefully debuted on the runway.
Courtesy of Tod’s.
Tod’s Presents a Made In Italy Masterpiece at Milan Fashion Week
Within the grand Laboratori Scala Ansaldo, the creative site of scenographers and carpenters in the midst of developing the spectacular mise en scène for the Teatro alla Scala, Tod’s presented an alluring Women’s Spring Summer 2024 collection. Titled “Tod’s Fabbrica,” Creative Director Walter Chiapponi’s latest runway show unfolded with effortless charisma and Made In Italy know-how. Taking inspiration from ‘90s minimalism and traditionally masculine codes, the brand offered suits with bountiful pleated trousers and airy trench coats. Stylish blousons in lightweight cotton and supple nappa leather were standout pieces for the changing of the seasons, as was the poplin t-shirt with refreshing kimono sleeves, the feminine patchwork skirt, and the graphic knitwear. Generous multi-purpose belts garnished a bevy of looks, as did cult accessories such as the expanded Di Bag, the T Timeless bags in resilient embossed leather, and the newly geometric Tod’s T-Box handbag. Footwear took the time-honored moccasin as its muse, offering ballet shoes, mules, and woven sandals in a variety of versatile and sophisticated natural tones.
