While the curtain has closed on New York Fashion Week, we’re reflecting on the vivacity of fall/winter 2024 runway shows by Markarian, Altuzarra, Carolina Herrera, Christian Cowan, Sergio Hudson, and Laquan Smith.
Markarian Founder Alexandra O’Neill Draws Inspiration from Italy’s Sacred Spaces
Courtesy of Markarian.
Founder and designer Alexandra O’Neill imbued the lasting impressions of a recent journey to Venice, Italy in the Markarian autumn/winter 2024 collection. Within the dreamlike city’s revered churches, O’Neill was overcome by immaculate heart motifs and their contemporary relevance. In this vein of self-preservation amidst the chaos of our collective world, a sumptuous parade of evening wear echoed the glittering divinity within each and every one of us. Highly-reflective metallic brocades—embellished with symmetrical curves, angles, and lines—gave way to misty and romantic satin numbers.
Gowns brimmed with a floral bounty so lush one could almost smell the fragrant buds, while a feast of the eyes was offered in moonlit shades of sapphire blue, crimson, and emerald green. A mirror-like veil appeared to wash over each look, as if peering through the stained glass windows of Italy’s sacred spaces. Kaleidoscopic silvers and golds flowed from head to toe, highlighting the sensuous curves of the female form. Visions of the immaculate heart appeared on a draped crinkle silk chiffon dress, as well as on the back of a sweeping onyx jacket, embodying Markarian’s angelic nature.
Altuzarra Unveiled a Salon-Style Runway Show for the Brand’s 15th Anniversary
Courtesy of Altuzarra.
Honoring the brand’s 15th anniversary, Altuzarra unveiled a profound salon-style runway show for the fall/winter 2024 collection. An evolving personal collection of objects, passions, and memories provided fertile ground for a dynamic contemporary wardrobe as an extension of the eclectic self. Lyrical photographs by Deborah Turbeville and epic play “A Doll’s House” by Henrick Ibsen assisted in shaping the charismatic presentation, where feminine lace and floral adornments paved the way for ballet-inspired silhouettes and surreal gowns worthy of cascading applause.
A dreamlike passage through time—from the 1920s to current day—was seen in diverse yet classic lines and tailoring, pausing for effect in tapered knit pants, bias-cut dresses, and elegant volumes. Dramatic moments of blossoming Pierrot ruffles, elongated leg warmers, luxurious knits, and leather opera gloves mediated on the beguiling life of a performer—both on and off the stage. Washed silks recalled vintage treasures passed down from one generation to another, while hand painted horse prints and suede totes nodded to time-honored equestrian affinities.
Carolina Herrera Raised a Toast to the Power of Femininity for the Fall 2024 Collection
Courtesy of Carolina Herrera.
Creative Director Wes Gordon raised a toast to the commanding women in his life with the Carolina Herrera fall 2024 collection. With meticulous attention to impeccable craftsmanship at the forefront of every look, purity of silhouette rose from the runway, with sculptural beading and embroidery providing a virtuous halo around a fearless parade of ruffles. Visionary color blocking imparted a powerful mission of ever-progressing, forward motion, no matter the challenges presented.
A second skin knit turtleneck in Herrera red ultra revealed a provocative sheerness, paired with merino wool ankle-grazing trousers featuring chic front drapery in fluid crepe that reached nearly to the floor. The embroidered puff sleeve jacket and Bermuda short in slipper pink wool tweed was a regal sensation, set off with pristine satin pumps whose jewels radiated with every sauntering step. A gold sequin column skirt and scoop neck cropped top revealed elegant hints of bare skin, styled with molded heart drop earrings for breathtaking effect.
Best of New York Fashion Week: Christian Cowan Shines at the Harmonie Club
Photo by Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway, courtesy of Christian Cowan.
Within the illustrious Harmonie Club—the second oldest social club in New York, Christian Cowan presented a transformative autumn/winter 2024 collection. Expanding on Cowan’s life-long reverence for the five-point star, a scintillating emblem of the universe’s endless mysteries, an otherworldly show unfolded. Models who graced the runway in the vibrant 90’s were beckoned to return for a celestial rebirth, introducing the world to a star-studded array of ritzy suits, mini dresses, and gowns aimed to please in chic neutrals and red-hot iterations.
A swinging trapeze dress with majestic sleeves, featuring ruby red stars, made for a fairy-tale-like entrance, while a diaphanous silvery gray gown with softly fraying lines placed the physique front and center. An innovative partnership with Adobe offered an era-defining electronically evolving garment in which laser-cut crystal petals morphed into star-shapes in an alternating ivory and gray palette. In addition, the TOMS x Christian Cowan capsule collection uplifted effortless style in a ravishing sonata of peonies.
Sergio Hudson is Energized by 1970s Bombshells Cher and Biana Jagger
Photo by Janice Yim/Kessler Studio, courtesy of Sergio Hudson.
1970s bombshells from Cher, to Diahann Caroll, to Bianca Jagger sparked vibrant new energy for Sergio Hudson with the fall 2024 collection. Their undefinable it-factor was transformed into glamorous leather corsets and stretch wool and matte jersey dresses for everyday power plays. A creative exuberance for coloring with crayons initiated fireworks of jungle green, acid yellow, and cobalt blue in sleek and celebratory designs. Denim, camel, and brown offered earthy and elegant charisma in the debut of revisioned double-breasted and pinstriped jumpsuits, stretch virgin wool suiting, and extravagant cashmere coats.
Experimentations in denim and leather zipper-front dresses were a resounding success, with playful design details paying homage to 70s sensuality. Oversized houndstooth coats in graphic black and white were decadently thrown over the shoulders, as were silky blazers, while glossy, body-hugging leather jackets were belted and styled with voluminous skirts and tall boots for heavenly seduction.
LaQuan Smith Orchestrated a Spectacle of Female Dynamism for Fall/Winter 2024
Photo by Don Ashby, courtesy of Laquan Smith.
LaQuan Smith orchestrated a spectacle of female dynamism for the fall/winter 2024 collection. Models appearing as vivacious working women in polished pin-striped power suits, architectural cotton poplin bodysuits, and gleaming metallic dresses were poetic figures in perpetual motion, emanating style, strength, and broad-mindedness from dawn till dusk. Steadfast shades of navy, maroon, caramel, and brown in voluptuous furs, sheer blouses, and leather blazers led serenely into floor-length metallic knits dresses, mini jewel toned satin dresses, and gilded short gowns with deep-V necklines.
An onyx below-the-knee dress with supreme luster and ruching, paired with a snow white blouse, teased high-octane Wall Street sensibilities. Satiny pearl-hued trousers made way for an asymmetrical halter which wrapped gracefully around the neck, conjuring Studio 54 vivacity. The Laquan Smith heroine eyes her target and never misses, a champion of the day’s enterprises in burnished trench coats and luxe suede jackets, and a ringleader of the night’s thrills in skin-revealing bodysuits paired with savage knee-high boots.
