As New York Fashion Week continues, we’re bringing you into the heart of fierce fall/winter 2024 collection debuts by Helmut Lang, Collina Strada, Willy Chavarria, Jason Wu, Tibi, and 3.1 Phillip Lim.
Creative Director Peter Do Championed Helmut Lang’s Pioneering Heart
Courtesy of Helmut Lang.
“Protection vs. Projection” was the compelling point of exploration for Helmut Lang’s fall/winter 2024 collection. Creative Director Peter Do’s iconic “System of Dressing” invoked the brand’s pioneering heart of experimental design through a parade of looks tailor made for the versatility of our modern lives. Garments as extensions of both the safety of home and the glitter of persona for enterprising New Yorkers were offered to all in 50 minimalist masterpieces. Innovation prevailed in silk bubble wrap fabric imbuing bomber jackets, bulletproof vests, and pants with luxurious utilitarianism.
The new hybrid suiting was introduced with wool in the front and ponte jersey in the back, allowing for seamless day to night adaptability. Zippers inspired by expandable suitcases leveraged wool cashmere sweaters and hoodies as vessels of warmth, mystery, or showmanship. Polished knits, sweats, and vintage wool suits utilized architectural details to embrace the body’s curves and angles, while hosiery jersey slip skirts and gowns freed the figure for fundamental New York resilience.
Collina Strada’s Fall/Winter 2024 Collection Gave Supreme Agency to the Female Gaze
Photo by Daniele Oberrauch/GORUNWAY, courtesy of Collina Strada.
Creative Director and Founder Hillary Taymour beckoned guests into the enlightened Collina Strada Gym with the mantra of “Stronger” and a fiercely diverse runway of models. The fall/winter 2024 collection placed the inherent dynamism of femininity front and center, giving supreme agency to the underrepresented female gaze to ignite inclusion, equity, and transparency across the globe. Able-bodied silhouettes were masterfully designed using deadstock fabric, skillfully mixing light and dark earthy shades together for a captivating homage to mother nature’s beauty and vigor.
The seductive satin Bubble Jacket in seafoam began with a rippling hem before softening to a classic collar serenely framing the visage. The sage Hiss Skirt featured molten flowers seemingly in motion, cascading down a river of smooth crepe; paired with white lace boxers, a graphic second skin shirt, moto gloves, and lime sneakers, a complex powerhouse of womanhood was unleashed. Collaborations spotlighting corn leather UGGs and PUMA x Collina Strada Suede XL and Velophasis footwear rejoiced in a new season of the all-encompassing female flex.
Best of New York Fashion Week: Willy Chavarria Harmonizes Style and Spirituality
Photo by Selwyn Tungol & Diego Bendezu, courtesy of Willy Chavarria.
“Safe from Harm” was the humanistic theme traversing Willy Chavarria’s opulent fall/winter 2024 runway show. In his signature cinematic style, the visionary designer honored his Mexican American heritage and relentless pursuit of social justice through provocative and life-affirming looks which evoked courage, dignity, and grace. Luminous black leather jackets with rounded shoulders were matched with opera gloves and sculptural jewelry. Elongated collars of coats and shirts were decadently opened to reveal skin and shining cross necklaces, sparking harmony of style and spirituality.
Mesmeric houndstooth and tweed in chic sweaters and sweeping coats kindled masculine flair, which expertly extended into elegant tracksuits embellished with sensual lines in crimson or gold. Fedoras in cream and onyx instilled a shadowy romance to the latest collection, with feminine florals blooming on hats and jacket lapels. An ivory cable knit sweater was styled with a second iteration tossed over the shoulders in a spectacle of strength and sensitivity, paired with billowing khaki trousers, glossy black shoes, and layers of gilded gems shaping a virtuous prophet of Willy Chavarria.
Jason Wu Honors the Dreamer Within in a Utopian Fall 2024 Presentation
Photo by Dan Lecca, courtesy of Jason Wu.
Jason Wu declared tribute to all those who dare to dream for the fall 2024 collection. A radiant palette of cream, navy, crimson, and gold, studded with neon and icy pastels, pervaded the utopian presentation. Rapturous day looks included draped sweaters winding around the arms and torso in dramatic protection, making way for supple, floor-grazing trousers. Short-sleeved sweaters were enhanced with smart pockets and juxtaposed with long yarn-like necklaces culminating in the pristine shine of a lone jewel. A ruby sweater dress flowed majestically over the hands and ended just before the knees, paired with short leather boots for a contemporary beacon of calm, cool, and collected.
Jason Wu’s cobalt blue gown owned the night with deftly orchestrated moments of torn and tattered fabric, brought delicately back together again with the dazzle of exquisite tailoring. An hypnotic, blue-green mini dress evoked the depths of the sea in a collage of shimmering flora and fauna, overlaid with an ankle-grazing layer of diaphanous fabric; set off with elongated gloves and glistening boots, the evening stunner was a muse for our modern fantasies.
Tibi Spotlights Heartfelt Partnerships and Chic Irreverence for New York Fashion Week
Courtesy of Tibi.
The sanctity of human connection and creativity took us to the moon and back during Tibi’s fall 2024 runway show. Energized by the trailblazing models of 90s fashion campaigns, as well as heartfelt partnership with luminaries like model Kristen McMenamy, photographer Lara Angelil, artist Kara Janx, and Marin and Marko of fLOVER, looks laid bare the very soul of the brand—brimming with organic style and soaring emotion. Premier artisans from Europe and Japan supported the Tibi vision in enchanting knitwear, bold suiting, and avant-garde evening wear.
An elongated varsity jacket collaged with high-waisted jeans and pointed heels with white socks sang out with sporty sophistication, while a grand navy sweater and below the knee skirt with lyrical hanging sleeves spoke of chic irreverence. Tibi’s brown and white button down was grounded in a long, black leather skirt, embellished by a low slung white belt for a pop of sheer optimism. A menswear inspired khaki suit beamed in the light, singularly featuring a vivacious green blanket scarf bolstered by a black belt, and topped off with a silvery head scarf in revolutionary design.
3.1 Phillip Lim Reveals a Collaborative Exhibition of Divine New York Moments
Courtesy of 3.1 Phillip Lim.
The 3.1 Phillip Lim fall/winter 2024 runway presentation, titled “Intersections,” recalled the collective creative spirit of New York City in a thought-provoking, experiential art and fashion exhibition. Four imaginative vignettes—Live, Love, Work, and Play—illuminated garments of the latest collection for otherworldly effect. An inspired range of AAPI artists, such as Dong-Ping Wong of Food Architects, composer Sugar Vendil, photographer Jiro Konami, graphic design studio Social Species, and poets Serena Yang, Fatima Ahmad, Vanessa Niu, and Jessica Kim, joined forces with the brand and Brooklyn-based Indie Studios to offer guests a vivid reckoning of 3.1 Phillip Lim as a sage connector of artistic voices and mortal revelations.
An evolution of childlike desires into seasoned passions played out in deconstructed suits, electrified sweatsuits, and potent menswear revised for the lyricism of female proportions. Throughout the theatrical installations, garments danced in tandem across fields of poetic imagery and materials. The wood grain motif of a flou fabric dress directed attention to the mise-en-scene of our everyday lives, with stars like the mellifluous velvet dress with tonal glitter urging us not to take for granted any divine moment.
