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Best of New York Fashion Week: Meditations on Memory

New York Fashion Week is well underway, with fashion houses unveiling inspired garments that act as both protective armor and a beacon of hope for the evolution of life and its seasons. Here, we revisit the runway shows of Khaite, Gentle Monster, Prabal Gurung, Eckhaus Latta, Proenza Schouler, and Area.

Erica Silverman

13 February 2024

We’re sharing the best of New York Fashion Week with impassioned fall/winter 2024 collections of Khaite, Gentle Monster, Prabal Gurung, Eckhaus Latta, Proenza Schouler, and Area

Khaite’s Creative Director Catherine Holstein Honors the Memory of her Mother 

KHAITE_FW24

Photo by Hanna Tveite, courtesy of KHAITE.

Unfolding was the rapturous theme of the Khaite fall/winter 2024 collection. Creative Director Catherine Holstein dedicated a darkly romantic range of looks to the memory of her mother, making way for a cathartic weaving of then and now. Immaculate materials were given agency to cascade across the body at will, further elevated by highly sculptural craftsmanship, menswear-inspired design details, and feminine couture silhouettes. Notable double-faced fabrications and hand-crafted layers of organza produced seductive day and evening looks for the ever-perceptive Khaite heroine. 

Sweeping coats and chic collared capes mingled with timeless cropped jackets for all ages and occasions. Proportions were supremely sensual when cinched at the waist or flowing freely down the torso, illuminating the depths of silk gazar. Rich tones of cream, white, and black provided the framework for riveting moments of oxblood, heathered gray, and camel in sinewy knits of sheer viscose, merino wool, and brushed cashmere enhanced by mohair. Tactile accessories embodied the robust traditions of fine Italian artistry, while curvaceous peep-toe pumps and architectural handbags rejoiced in the cathartic duality of Khaite. 

Gentle Monster Debuts Glasses for Work and Play at the Private Policy Runway Show

Gentle Monster Glasses FW24

Courtesy of Gentle Monster.

Gentle Monster debuted mesmeric Ytt 02 eyewear of the BOLD collection during the Private Policy fall/winter 2024 presentation. The forward-thinking, genderless runway looks provided the ideal match for Gentle Monster’s avant-garde and fairytale-like designs. An angular, square shape in fluid silver illuminated the visage alongside the sleek BOLD insignia on multiple points, celebrating the holistic and provocative brand. Titanium glistens at the temples and crystal-clear lenses protect the eyes from harmful blue light and UV rays, culminating in a must-have accessory for both work and play. 

Prabal Gurung Weaves Fragmented Memories through the Fall/Winter 2024 Collection 

PRABAL GURUNG FW24

Photo by Dan Lecca, courtesy of Prabal Gurung.

Fragmented Memories was the potent subtext ebbing and flowing through Prabal Gurung’s vivacious fall/winter 2024 collection, paying distinct homage to the designer’s multifaceted relationship with their late father. A recent pilgrimage to Nepal sparked emotional explorations of childhood diaries embellished with meaningful pressed flowers and recollections of family hikes through picturesque mountains—carving an enlightened path of reflection and renewal for the visionary creative. 

The warm embrace of shearling, cashmere, and luxurious kaftans washed across the runway in life-affirming crimson as well as innocent pastels. Diaphanous, floral-printed fabrics were layered for a haunting effect, producing wearable artworks of memory and longing. An oversized, silky suit in navy with white trim was paired with a sheer black shirt, conjuring the narrative of a profound voyage through time and space. A divine, platinum-hued look cradled a model in expert draping, serving as both a lustrous garment of protection and a beacon of hope and graciousness for the evolution of life and its seasons.

Best of New York Fashion Week: Eckhaus Latta Reflects on This Stirring Moment 

Eckhaus Latta FW 24

Photo by Madison Voelkel, courtesy of Eckhaus Latta.

Eckhaus Latta reflected on the stirring, chaotic moment in which we live with a dynamic autumn/winter 2024 collection. Models imparted a kaleidoscope of personalities with the latest runway presentation, inspiring all to embark on the world as their true, enchanting selves. A cropped, furry travertine jacket made a glowing entrance, paired with a sleekly slashed skirt in tobacco and fearless black brown leather boots. The delicate Puzzle tank and skirt in ethereal dust was topped off with the Poet Bonnet in flushed cinnabar; climax knee-high boots in dark green and red Elektra leather rooted the outfit in a spellbinding meeting of soft and strong.

A Fragment button down in shadow revealed skin in a hypnotic fashion, elegantly rooted by the meticulously draped Trace pant in asphalt. The Gloam skirt in caviar allowed for freedom of movement, with a ribbon of fabric dancing across the runway. Club sunglasses in satin black superbly framed models’ faces, keeping the Eckhaus Latta mystery alive.

Best of New York Fashion Week: Proenza Schouler Meditates on the Multifaceted Self

Proenza Schouler_FW24

Photo by Giovanni Giannoni & Monica Feudi, courtesy of Proenza Schouler.

Minimalist silhouettes gave the creative soul room to breathe in Proenza Schouler’s fall/winter 2024 collection. A meditation on the inner and outer self was initiated in elongated, nimble lines, rippling out into a myriad of translucent layers hiding and revealing the body in poetic rhythm. The Maude Dress in black technical lace swept down the back a sense of memories not long forgotten, paired with the understated Tee Over the Knee Boot in black viscose knit. The Phoenix Coat in black wool gabardine was layered with an ecru wool iteration, collaging moments and emotions for a nuanced personal story. 

An ash-colored, textured boucle knit was seen in the stunning Toni Dress, which wrapped the figure from neck to ankle in a blanket embellished by fringe and left the torso seductively exposed. Dazzling accessories including the Crush Clutch in silver metal, the Flip Shoulder Bag in black eel, and the Silo Bag in rosewood nappa added expressive sophistication to each and every tender look. 

Area Presents Supreme Homage to the Connection Between Artist and Audience 

Area FW24

Courtesy of AREA.

Area’s spring/summer 2024 presentation unveiled a prismatic ready-to-wear and couture runway in supreme homage to the intimate relationship between artist and audience. Deeply inspired by 1920s cartoon eyes and 60s pop art, the surreal collection explored the perceptive eye in the form of joyful flowers, crystal eyelets, and Dalmatian-like spots. Pale pink mini-dresses were dotted with sculptural and glittering floral designs, with the soft blush color washing over structured jackets and mini-skirts featuring petal-like patterns—even platform shoes bloomed with shining floral artistry. 

Crystal adornments veiled the face and body with theatrical style, showcasing strands swinging in tandem with the body’s every movement. Effervescent orange set pinwheel studded garments apart, with fabric brimming over hands and transforming models into larger-than-life melodies of mother nature. Vivid denim garments in the form of elongated shirts, cropped jackets, dresses, and mini-shorts imprinted the fantasy of perception in our minds.

SAME AS TODAY

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Christian Siriano’s Dune-Inspired Collection Ignites The Plaza

On the eve of New York Fashion Week’s official start, Christian Siriano premiered his otherworldly Fall/Winter 2024 collection at The Plaza Hotel last Thursday.

Thom Browne Stages Haunting, Poe-inspired Fashion Week Finale

On Thursday evening at The Shed at Hudson Yards, Thom Browne closed New York Fashion Week for the fall/winter 2024 collection.

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Minjung Kim

THE SPRING ARTIST ISSUE
2023

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After two years of planning and construction, creative collective KidSuper opened its new headquarters, KidSuper World, on February 10.
On the eve of New York Fashion Week’s official start, Christian Siriano premiered his otherworldly Fall/Winter 2024 collection at The Plaza Hotel last Thursday.
On Thursday evening at The Shed at Hudson Yards, Thom Browne closed New York Fashion Week for the fall/winter 2024 collection.

SUBSCRIBE TO NEWSLETTER

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