Paris Fashion Week Debuts from LOEWE, Givenchy, Issey Miyake, and More
As we near the end of Paris Fashion Week, we’re taking you through collections that are still lingering in our minds. Here, find the latest for Spring/Summer 2024 from Issey Miyake, Givenchy, LOEWE, Schiaparelli, and Dries Van Noten.
Courtesy of Issey Miyake.
Issey Miyake Takes Hold of That Without Form
Nature’s shapeless elements were the genesis of Issey Miyake’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection by Satoshi Kondo, “Grasping the Formless.” An interdisciplinary performance at Césure during Paris Fashion Week included music and choreography to lead the way for looks embodying things we can see but cannot always touch, like wind and light. Amid a cast of musicians and floating washi paper, were looks from a series of design suites. There were draped sheer Ambiguous dresses that hugged the wearer in their tubular silhouettes. Prints were made by purposefully exposing camera film to light making up a suite of colorful, minimal silhouettes in the Light Leak garments, while the Enveloping series featured supple material that created an individual look on the body of each wearer. Finally, Fixed In Time (inspired by the idea of capturing something mid-motion) was a lightweight series of voluminous designs, and the Twisted garments made from Japanese washi paper and linen that offered exaggerated shapes with twisted and folded elements, with each look finished with a unique hat. The garments were accompanied by a collaboration with New Balance, the MT10O sneaker, designed to mimic the mobility of walking barefoot.
Courtesy of LOEWE.
LOEWE’s Paris Fashion Week Presentation Features Art by Lynda Benglis
The latest from LOEWE and creative director Jonathan Anderson was a proposition for daywear that was conceived by toying with perspective—zooming in on details and also looking from afar for inspiration in outline and silhouette. A foundation in the classic wardrobe (denim, knitwear, trench coats, tailoring) was a launching point for pragmatic clothing in a respectable palette, where detailing made each piece special. There were enlarged knits with exaggerated buttons and no sleeves (think of a cape with buttons down the front) or half-collared sweaters that hung to the knees, skirts with long knitting needles threaded through the front like curtain rods, soft leather shirting and shorts where the hems were left raw, and a continuation of the ultra-high waistlines seen in recent collections. Other standout pieces included knits with knotted details, slouchy handbags with chain detailing, and unusual shapes like a dress featuring a square panel on the front stuck with an enlarged knitting needle or a ruffled skirt with an extra tail. The collection was shown in an environment accented with large bronze sculptures by Lynda Benglis, whose ongoing collaboration with the house included a series of statement jewelry for the Spring/Summer 2024 season.
Courtesy of Givenchy.
Givenchy Brings Instinctive Elegance to Paris Fashion Week
At L’Ecole Millitaire, Givenchy debuted its Spring/Summer 2024 collection within a one-of-a-kind set conceived in a partnership between Creative Director Matthew M. Williams and Creative Architecture Laboratory (CAL) Founder, Gabriel Calatrava. The architectural sculpture welcomed visitors inside, where a collection of instinctive elegance glided across a monochrome environment of calming white. The designs were simple but certainly not boring, presented in looks that were pared down to the essential elements required of a beautiful ensemble—skirts and blouses, dresses with dusters, oversized blazers with gauzy underlayers, and all worn with sheer knee socks and ankle strap heels. Airy chiffon draping, hand-painted flowers, and gauzy sheers added an evening elegance to daytime wear, while a handful of looks for more formal occasions featured memorable details—like a black gown with a fan of lace at the neckline, a long white silhouette featuring an off-the-shoulder shrug and gloves, and a floral dress dyed with an ancient mud silk technique with knotted details at the hip and shoulder.
Courtesy of Schiaparelli.
Wearable Art by Schiaparelli at Paris Fashion Week
Schiaparelli’s artful avant-garde returned with a Spring/Summer 2024 ready-to-wear collection by Daniel Roseberry that put a spin on everyday beauty. While a timeless palette of black, white, and gold took the show, not one piece in the collection could be considered commonplace, as even the most regular styles were imagined as extraordinary. There were thoughtful updates to iconic shapes, like denim jackets with sculptural lapels and shirts with voluminous ruffled collars, slip dresses with cushion bra cups, bustiers with anemone-like protuberances or large crustaceans, and skirt-and-sweater pairings with taught buttonholes open to reveal white briefs. In addition to dramatic updates in silhouette, everything was adorned in the maison’s signature gold ornamentation, from tiny charms and hardware to cuff bracelets, statement earrings, sculptural clutches, and even a gold ornament hanging from a belly button ring. The usual keyholes and anatomical details were accompanied for the season by a number of sea creatures, like a metallic fish reading “Schiaparelli” on the front of a skirt, an ensemble with a glossy fish skeleton, and various crabs and lobsters seen clinging to gathers of fabric.
Courtesy of Dries Van Noten.
Paris Fashion Week Highlights from Dries Van Noten Reimagine Tradition
The concept of “Unfamiliar Familiar” unfolded on the Spring/Summer 2024 runway of Dries Van Noten, where the designer gave new life to recognizable references. Essences of a country club wardrobe or that worn by students of a prep school—pinstriped shirting, camel blazers, rugby stripes—became fun and elevated options with a high-fashion allure. Staples in the menswear universe were transformed into upbeat and interesting garments when transferred to the womenswear oeuvre, including pieces like oxfords as off-the-shoulder dresses that wrapped at the waist, jerseys that melded into calf-length outerwear or tops with asymmetric ties, tops with extra fabric tied into bows, and blazers and button-ups worn open over knitted briefs. Elements like geometric and psychedelic prints in light colors, iridescent sequins, and textured crystals took away any air of somberness in styles like halter blouses and skirts or cropped trousers with jackets. Looks were styled with colorful feathers hanging from hair and eyelashes and lace-up heels with socks in various patterns and colorways.
