Skip to content
subscribe
Account
SEARCH

Categories

LASTEST

VIKTOR&ROLF Haute Couture SS24

Best of Paris Haute Couture Week: A Blossoming Transformation

Lingering on a momentous Paris haute couture week, visionary fashion houses unveiled poetic homages to life’s evolutions in spellbinding creations, while offering the tender knowledge that there is beauty in everything. Here, Whitewall shares the revitalizing shows of Miss Sohee, Viktor&Rolf, Tamara Ralph, Guarav Gupta, ASHI, and Robert Wun.

Erica Silverman

30 January 2024

As Paris haute couture week came to a ceremonious close last week, we’re reminiscing on the euphoric spring/summer 2024 presentations of Miss Sohee, Viktor&Rolf, Tamara Ralph, Guarav Gupta, ASHI, and Robert Wun.

Miss Sohee Presents a Bountiful Homage to Seoul during Paris Haute Couture Week

MissSohee_Couture SS24

Photo by Stefan Knauer, courtesy of Miss Sohee.

A bountiful homage to the dazzling city of Seoul and refreshed memories radiated through the Miss Sohee couture spring/summer 2024 collection, with delicate shades of magnolias and cherry blossoms sending us soaring. Gentle jewel tones evoked upcoming seasons of growth and renewal in supremely feminine garments including body-skimming dresses and hourglass skirts. Poetic reflections of beloved antiques, such as snow-white porcelain vases, mother-of-pearl handbags, and sculptural wooden fans, were deftly translated into backless, multi-faceted gowns with sensuous lines and luminous finishes. 

Surrealist paintings of abundant lotus fields provoked the hypnotic embroidery in voluminous chiffon skirts, silk taffeta dresses, moiré trains, and skirts enhanced with a cosmic landscape of Swarovski crystals. Collaborations with South Korean artisans in Hansan Mosi-fans and jewel-like handbags—spotlighting a highly technical method of slow-weaving using local hemp—ushered in the next era of enchanting savoir-faire with Miss Sohee.

“Viktor&Rolf Scissorhands” Unfolded as a Mosaic of Creativity at Sorbonne University

Victor&Rolf Haute Couture SS24

Courtesy of VIKTOR&ROLF.

Within the illustrious Sorbonne University, “Viktor&Rolf Scissorhands” unfolded as a mosaic of vast creativity and experimentation in haute couture fashion. 28 signature silhouettes in vivid onyx were meticulously revealed in 7 groups of 4. The opening look of each category was a classic couture masterpiece, which made way for a parade of awe-inspiring renditions featuring decorative cutting in a pure celebration of life’s inherent dualities. 


From petite slivers to cavernous holes, to lyrical slashes, the meaningful markings on gowns, jackets, and trousers immersed us in a poignant marriage of the flawless with the organic, and the virile with the wounded. Festive materials of satin and velvet—lit from within by shimmering sequins—were anchored in architectural silhouettes. Paired with sheer, raven-hued Falke stockings and four dynamic finishes of Christian Louboutin heels, Viktor&Rolf nimbly offered the tender knowledge that there is beauty in everything.


Best of Paris Haute Couture Week: Tamara Ralph Unveils a Bold Collaboration with Audemars Piguet

Tamara Ralph Couture SS24

Courtesy of Tamara Ralph.

Tamara Ralph raised a toast to 16 seasons of designing couture—and the second edition of her eponymous brand—with a dazzling spring/summer 2024 collection. Elegantly grounded in the power of femininity and the enigma of time, Ralph presented a kaleidoscopic range of beguiling and transformative looks, inviting us to savor the precious moment. 

In this vein, a bold partnership with Swiss luxury watchmaker Audemars Piguet was unveiled on the runway, spotlighting a limited edition timepiece as a visionary take on the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon. The romantic and the avant-garde were stunningly melded throughout the show. 

A crystal chain dress gleamed with a myriad of metallic tones, while a draped chiffon gown in a luscious shade of green tea was cinched with a gilded metal belt—enhanced with wide sleeves and garnished with fantastical ostrich feathers. A peridot crystal mesh gown bared the shoulders gracefully, with crystal roses flowing across arms and décolletage as if frozen in time at full bloom.

Gaurav Gupta Presents “Aarohanam,” a Divine Evolution, in Paris

GAURAV GUPTA Haute Couture SS24

Photo by Oryx Production, courtesy of Gaurav Gupta.

Aarohanam” was the mesmeric title of the Gaurav Gupta spring/summer 2024 couture collection, imbuing soulful meditation into otherworldly capes, multi-dimensional metal garments, and sweeping trench coats. The thought-provoking Sanskrit word evoking a being’s divine evolution released vibrant looks undulating in volume, color, and tailoring. Pitch-black garments reflected smoldering uncertainty, volcanic red sparked fiery passion, sandy hues warmed with a sense of restoration, and sky blue lifted the spirits in heavenly delight. 

Curvaceous, cropped jackets were collaged with statuesque wool and chiffon suits, highlighting indigenous techniques of Zardozi, Badla, and Mukaish visible through sumptuous crystal adornments. Angelic, hooded gowns found serpentine pathways across the body, caressing the visage, torso, and ankles, while precise cut-outs exposed the sparkle and vitality of bare skin.

ASHI Studio Brought a Poetic “Ink Sculpture” to Couture Week

ASHI_ss24_couture runway

Courtesy of ASHI Studio.

ASHI Studio brought a scintillating “Ink Sculpture” to Paris for couture week, imbuing the riveting elements of Japanese poetry to the spring/summer 2024 collection. Designer Mohammed Ashi was inspired by crisp, impassioned verses and the rich flair of the calligraphy brush that were then absorbed into sensuous gowns which embraced both the masculine and feminine in cut and attitude. 

Glistening tones of ebony, ivory, and gold washed over mysterious and romantic dresses both supremely cropped and elongated. Models stunned in designs reminiscent of mother nature’s bounty featuring seashells, raffia, and caviar crystals. The tops of dresses evoked dancing sea vegetation, with gilded needlework and tubular beading offering whimsical narratives of both rippling inks in water and the fascinating aquatic universe. Materials were precious and tactile in larger-than-life volumes. Fringed peplums, glittering draped sleeves, and tiered skirts with black crystals brimmed with sentiment for the melodious connection between art, poetry, and life. 

Creative Director Robert Wun Reflected on the Lengths We Travel “FOR LOVE”

Robert Wun_ss24_runway

Courtesy of Robert Wun.

Creative Director Robert Wun reflected on the lengths we travel “FOR LOVE” in a dramatic spring/summer 2024 couture collection brimming with garments embodying memory, grief, and transformation. The hot-blooded journey that both agonizes and propels the collective world forward permeated a highly imaginative presentation of couture creations. A midnight blue gown reminiscent of origami featured an umbrella of chic protection from any oncoming storm, while a sweeping ivory veil over an onyx dress was embellished with rhythmic written messages to nourish heart and soul. 

A majestic white gown was grounded in a flurry of whipped-cream-like ruffles, expressing playful exuberance, and a theatrical coat with a cascade of glass-like details manifested shards of suffering—exemplified in a coordinating mask. A singular cream-colored skirt suit with gloves, hat, and veil appeared as a wearable canvas decorated in splashes of rainbow hues, daringly reminding us that this too shall pass. 

SAME AS TODAY

FURTHER READING

Kim Jones Focuses on Futurism for FENDI Couture

Artistic Director Kim Jones collaborated once again with composer Max Richter for the FENDI couture show this week in Paris.

Maison Margiela’s Bewitching Artisanal Collection Debuts Under a Full Moon

With Creative Director John Galliano at the helm, Maison Margiela’s bewitching runway show beckoned under the historic Pont Alexandre III.

Kim Jones Focuses on Futurism for FENDI Couture

Artistic Director Kim Jones collaborated once again with composer Max Richter for the FENDI couture show this week in Paris.

Valentino Le Salon Gifts Haute Couture Splendor

The Spring/Summer 2024 collection unfolded as the pinnacle of excellence and creativity in fashion by Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli.

SUBSCRIBE TO MAGAZINE

Kelly Wearstler

THE WINTER EXPERIENCE ISSUE
2023

Subscribe

SUBSCRIBE TO NEWSLETTER

Go inside the worlds of Art, Fashion, Design and Lifestyle.

READ THIS NEXT

With Creative Director John Galliano at the helm, Maison Margiela’s bewitching runway show beckoned under the historic Pont Alexandre III.
Artistic Director Kim Jones collaborated once again with composer Max Richter for the FENDI couture show this week in Paris.
The Spring/Summer 2024 collection unfolded as the pinnacle of excellence and creativity in fashion by Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli.

SUBSCRIBE TO NEWSLETTER

Go inside the worlds
of Art, Fashion, Design,
and Lifestyle.