To the tune of Sexy Boy by Air, the Chanel show began yesterday in Paris with a full crowd anticipatory of the Fall/Winter 2024 collection that followed. On a dark wooden floor, models walked in front of a massive screen that snaked around the room. Imagined by Inez and Vinood, it played a film inspired by Claude Lelouch’s A Man and a Woman (1966) featuring beachside scenes—from views of a pier meeting the ocean to sunset shots of models walking by the water. It was awash in gorgeous hues, matching the tone of garments on the runway.
Chanel Fall/Winter 2024 Pays Homage to Deauville
At first glance, this seaside view was majestic and somewhat mysterious, but with a close eye, those loyal to Chanel could trace it back to the brand’s DNA. After all, it was a replica of the destination Deauville, a city part of the heartbeat of the maison. “Deauville is where everything started for the house, said Creative Director Virginie Viard. “1912, the creation of her hat shop, and then very quickly the first clothes with their visionary, radical style. It’s where it all began for Gabrielle Chanel.”
Courtesy of Chanel.
Chanel Fall/Winter 2024, courtesy of Chanel.
On a recreated boardwalk in the City of Lights, Chanel’s ties to Deauville began anew. The line’s color palette—an unmissable detail that drew from the visuals—took on hues of the sky. Pastel shades of light pink bled to deep mauve, with pale blue, brown, and even gold lamé following. The sky came alive in the collection’s tones, punctuated with vibrant oranges and blues.
Chanel Fall/Winter 2024, courtesy of Chanel.
Prints harked back to Deauville’s connection to art, cinema, and culture, including the American Film Festival and its 7th Art activation, showing stills from 35mm films, scans of cinema tickets, and classic herringbone. Materials reminded us of what people wore then, and still wear there today—from sailor-inspired chunky knits to silk tops with flouncing details, jumpsuits, and matching tweed sets, of course.
Chanel Fall/Winter 2024, courtesy of Chanel.
Drawing inspiration from Gabrielle Chanel’s own wardrobe, Viard mixed the ease of femininity with the masculine details of a winter wardrobe worn by the sea. Layered looks like belted peacoats with broad shoulders over silk slip dresses were seen, as well as cropped knit dresses with hemlines that met thigh-high boots in sheepskin—a direct nod to Anouk Aimée’s wardrobe in A Man and a Woman.
“The silhouette of David Bowie, the magnetism of film stars walking on the sand, like Anouk Aimée, a great friend of Gabrielle Chanel… This collection pays homage to these familiar figures,” said Viard.
Unforgettable Chanel Hats
Chanel Fall/Winter 2024, courtesy of Chanel.
Accessories, though, were the star of the show. This collection will be remembered for its pastel-colored wide-brimmed hats, seen in exaggerated silhouettes with the fronts pinned back by a clover brooch. Silk scarves, unique belts, nautical jewelry with pearls and gemstones, and Chanel’s iconic handbags were also seen.
“It’s a very warm collection, with layers of materials, colors, and volumes,” Viard added. “It pays tribute to Deauville, the legendary place where Gabrielle Chanel’s destiny changed forever.”
Chanel Fall/Winter 2024, courtesy of Chanel.
Chanel Fall/Winter 2024, courtesy of Chanel.
