Yesterday afternoon in Paris, Maria Grazia Chiuri revealed Dior‘s Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2021-22 collection. Presented within the Rodin Museum, the show debuted against a one-of-a-kind backdrop by the French artist Eva Jospin.
For her utopian landscape, which amassed over 1,148 square feet, cardboard cut-outs embroidered with silk thread, hemp, linen, and cotton soothed the audience’s eyes with 400 shades of turquoise, copper, sand, and coral.
Featuring 18th-century forests, rocks, waterfalls, and structures, the installation was created in collaboration with the artisans of the Chanakya School of Craft in Mumbai, who worked in constant communication with the artist.
Against this monumental composition were garments and accessories that floated by in harmony. To celebrate savoir-faire and cultures from around the world, Dior’s latest looks embodied poetic range in materiality—from matching tweed ball caps and coats to chiffon dresses. Movement, which was painfully paused over the past year amid the pandemic, returned through breezy dresses, dimensional coats, high-waisted pleated skirts, and more.
The color palette proved to stay safe with plenty of white, black, grey, and taupe, but was elevated by a handful of floral and checker patterns. Of course, Grazia Chirui’s organza gowns were seen in an array of styles and silhouettes, but powerful suits and separates made a strong case to combat the older seasons ahead.
Accessories were pared back and simple, showing no signs of new bags or clutches, but awoke curiosity with enchanting detail on the ears and fingertips. Mix-matched earrings, with one dropping to the shoulder and the other snug on the lobe, shined in metal and pearls. Hand ornaments—like caged metal cuffs that wrapped over the dorsal side of the hand, and delicate ring-like attachments for fingertips—were seen, too.
Shoes and caps, while mostly matching the garments in the same color or material, provided a sophisticated look at cooler months moving forward.