Over the weekend in Seoul, Dior presented its Fall 2022 ready-to-wear collection with a runway show at the Ewha Womans University. For the maison’s new collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri focused on themes of sisterhood, inspired by the recent Faber & Faber publication by Justine Picardie Miss Dior: A Story of Courage and Couture, which looks at the life and influence of Christian Dior’s sister, Catherine, and other noteworthy females who contributed to the designer’s achievements.
The show kicked off with a performance of models on skateboards, who quickly revealed the purpose of the unusual runway configuration—an assemblage of wooden stairs, sloping ramps, and metal rails. In their wake, models began weaving through the space on foot, an upbeat soundtrack with a rock’n’roll attitude setting the mood for the youthful designs. Ideas of uniform comprised the elemental building blocks of the collection, elevated with Dior signatures and details like pristine tailoring, pleated skirts, gloves, and matching handbags.
The personalization often applied to school uniforms became a channel by which Chiuri found elements of fun and sophistication in otherwise-utilitarian styles, implemented through devices like creative layering and the use of various textures and fabrications. Ranging from tartan and houndstooth to leather, lace, quilting, and embroidery, there were pinafore dresses with neckties, Bermuda shorts with blazers, plaid pleating layered over biker shorts, and other looks with a collegiate allure. Dispersed throughout the collection was the introduction of a new motif that Chiuri took from the jute bags of the Dior family business, meant to be emblematic of a new sisterhood the designer is working to foster through ongoing collaborations.
More casual looks we’re still thinking of include a sporty ensemble comprised of shorts, a mock-neck crop top, and a jacket in white, red, and blue; a khaki look with a cape, skirt, a matching fedora, and black boots featuring metal hardware; and a belted blazer layered over an A-line leopard print skirt, paired with a footwear style that combined elements of sneakers with a heel. Straying from the everyday, we were captivated by imaginative silhouettes like a one-shouldered gown in yellow tartan taking notes from a kilt, a dress in sheer scarlet plissè layered over mesh and cinched with an eyelet-studded belt, and a black silhouette that played with elements of lingerie, featuring sheer sections, tulle applique flowers, and black sneakers.
Launched in time with the show, the house has also announced a partnership with its hosts at Ewha Womans University. The collaboration will see a program of academic opportunities and happenings like a scholarship, a Women@Dior internship, training programs, and masterclasses.
“I am delighted to work with Dior, one of the most prestigious luxury brands, on behalf of universities in the Republic of Korea, said Eun Mee Kim, President of Ewha Womans University. “Through various industrial-academic collaborations with Dior including an internship program, I hope that the students will be able to nurture their global capacities and become talents who will lead the hyper-connectivity of our times and fulfill their roles and responsibilities in the world.”