In what seems to be a popular trend for this couture season, Dior’s Raf Simons combined tradition with the futuristic for fall/winter 2014-15. The show took place at the Jardin du Musée Rodin gardens, where a white cylindrical structure transformed the gardens into a spaceship-like, futuristic setting that provided the perfect backdrop to jump through decades.
Beginning with wide-skirted, corseted, pannier-dresses, the collection took a turn for the Rococo and pre-revolutionary France. From Antoinette, it shifted into more wearable, loose, NASA-esque coveralls that featured pastels and floral embroidery. Fitted skirts with petal-like edges went out with easy silk tanks, which were then succeeded by monochrome ensembles. Bright, flowered velvet jackets in white, mint, red, and pink provided a burst of color to these more conventional looks. Early 20th-century shift dresses and warm greatcoats followed. Next came wide-collared coats until the eventual return of the flared dress, this time with delicate lines and tulle skirts.
The cyclical wavering between pant, skirt, dress, and coat signified a variety uncommon in haute couture. Yet Simons’ weaving between decades revealed that his true focus was less on a type of garment and more on discovery. He explained, “I was interested in the process of finding something extremely modern, through something very historical.”