Paris Fashion Week has unveiled a parade of feeling and forthright collections. Here we shine a light on garments that will empower generations of women from Schiaparelli, Celine, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, McQueen, and more.
Schiaparelli Pays Homage to Generations of Women with “Future Vintage”
Courtesy of Schiaparelli.
Courtesy of Schiaparelli.
The Schiaparelli Ready-to-Wear Spring/Summer 2025 runway was emboldened with an opulent “Future Vintage” spirit, debuting eternally elegant looks to be treasured for generations of heroines to come. Imbuing refined couture details throughout, as well as daring color and pattern, a postmodern masterpiece unfolded. The maison’s legendary knitwear was diversified in both airy, feminine iterations and in echoings of sleek menswear. New accompaniments like the Schiap bag in butter soft leather was displayed in all the colors of the rainbow, while the house’s first flat shoe was unveiled in ombre for stepping out of the sea in prosperous Schiaparelli style.
“This collection, like all my work, owes everything to the women who brought it to life,” said Creative Director Daniel Roseberry. “Every stunning model on this runway, my stylist, my collection director, my studio members—every woman, from client to seamstress to artisan and technician. This collection isn’t just possible because of you, it was designed for you and with you. It exists because of you. Thank you.”
Celine’s “Un Ètè Français” Invokes the Velvet Underground and Françoise Sagan
Courtesy of Celine.
Hedi Slimane, illustrious Artistic Director of Celine, was energized by the musical poetry of Nico and the Velvet Underground, as well as swoonworthy 1965 novel “La Chamade” by Françoise Sagan for the extravagant Summer 2025 collection. In an immersive runway and video titled “Un Ètè Français,” the maision’s protagonist donned effervescent looks like a revisioned school girl skirt enhanced by featherweight cashmere with hand-embroidery. Slim summer coats were presented in both glazed lambskin and suede for come hither prowess, and twinsets radiated with sequins for effortless evening dynamism. Chic slingbacks in exotic lacquered leathers including crocodile, lizard, and python tuned on the high octane charm, as did the latest Teen Bag Joséphine in gleaming ruby and emerald.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s Collection Honors the Duality of Dance
Courtesy of Ludovic de Saint Sernin.
Courtesy of Ludovic de Saint Sernin.
The enduring magnetism of dance set the Ludovic de Saint Sernin Spring/Summer 2025 collection afire, lyrically photographed by Adam Peter Johnson. Conjuring the sensuality and strength of Robert Mapplethrope’s iconic portraits of dancers, as well as the mysterious and dramatic style of the one and only Rudolf Nureyev, looks brimmed with lush tones of ballet, bondage, and beauty. Raw-edged jackets of virgin wool, embroidered boleros embellished with goose feathers, and amorous leather briefs with ostrich plumes offered graceful movement. A collaging of jersey tank tops in ethereal chiffon and white cotton were given the provocative treatment with knotted harness necklines, and chocolate-hued leather bralettes featuring grommeted coils set the thrilling stage for Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s much-anticipated haute couture collection for the esteemed Jean Paul Gaultier.
McQueen’s Haunting, Guiding Force for Spring/Summer 2025
Courtesy of McQueen.
Courtesy of McQueen.
McQueen Creative Director Seàn McGirr offered the captivating words of Eimear McBride for the latest Spring/Summer 2025 runway. The beguiling, original piece stated: “Made for stillness, as of bad earth. In my body alone. But I am all pasts brought forward. Selling harrow to my time. Hair flying. Flicker fingers. One step the scourge. One more, a sign. I am what comes from a distance.” In this profound vein, a haunting new collection was brought forward upon a dark and misty catwalk. Refreshing takes on British suiting found robust twists and turns in masterful tailoring, juxtaposed with garments soothed by silk chiffon in sunray pleats. Washes of organza were shredded for a poised, undone attitude, and cobweb lace with hand-stitched details lent day and night looks a sense of persistent magnificence.
‘The banshee is rooted in the history of McQueen, but it’s also a story that I grew up with, so feels deeply personal to me—something I remember my mother talking about in Ireland, describing the cry of this solitary, foreboding figure,” said McGirr. “For me, she has come to represent something real and potent now. The idea of someone who is feeling and forthright; someone who can be seen as a guiding force.’
Issey Miyake Revels in “The Beauty of Paper”
Courtesy of Issey Miyake.
Courtesy of Issey Miyake.
Issey Miyake reveled in “The Beauty of Paper” for Spring/Summer 2025, debuting a symphonic collection within Parc Floral de Paris. The heavenly, white-washed pavilion made way for a distinct homage to the tones and textures of the universally used material. The maison’s EAU series of sculptural garments rose and fell with gossamer, draped fabric, and shimmering elements. Kamiko pieces were masterfully crafted with 100% hemp fibers, spotlighting the historic craft of Japan with organically shaped trench coats and suiting. Fold to Form made a statement with a charismatic three-dimensional design, evoking the enchanting artistry of origami in buoyant washi, rayon-silk, and stretch yarn.
Loewe’s Runway Beams with a Meditative Sculpture by Tracey Emin
Courtesy of LOEWE.
Courtesy of LOEWE.
Trailblazing British artist Tracey Emin’s lithe yet powerful sculpture The only place you came to me was in my sleep (2017) was placed at the heart of Loewe’s Spring/Summer 2025 runway. The compelling artwork featuring a bronze bird atop a post spoke to fragility and freedom and paved the way for an equally visceral collection. With a clear and concise focus on the human silhouette, garments slid across every curve or billowed out, naturally. Floral designs danced across soft silk pieces and feathers came together in animalistic camouflages, imploring our oneness with Mother Nature’s twists and turns. Sequins shimmered across a bevy of knitwear, and whether caressed in soft nappa leather or mother of pearl shells, it was evident the Loewe protagonist approaches each day with her own meditative melody.
