Haute Couture FW21: Viktor & Rolf, Ralph & Russo, and Azzaro

Representing the times in which we’re living, Viktor & Rolf introduced three mini-wardrobes to embody three mindsets—a somber mood, radiating love, and the conflicting emotions many of us experience on a day-to-day basis. Each featuring three pieces—a nightgown, dressing gown, and coat—they offer floor-length hems, luxurious fabrications, and emotive, exaggerated embellishments like oversized bows, structural fabric protrusions, and enormous puffed sleeves. In one suite, dark hues of navy, gray, and black accompany a silky nightgown with a raincloud motif and a coat with protective spikes extending away from the body. In another, pink and red 3D hearts take the form of quilted pockets and 3D trim that lined the silhouette of a coat. And for the third mini-collection, asymmetric cuts and an emoji print evoke a wide spectrum of feelings.

Offering solace in a world of fantasy, Ralph & Russo’s new collection debuted through the magical lens of technology. The brand created its own muse this season, taking the form of a digital avatar, Hauli—a Swahili name meaning strength and power. Rendered in front of the seven contemporary wonders of the world, Hauli is seen at landmarks like the Great Wall of China and Rio’s Christ the Redeemer, wearing the season’s new designs, like a petal pink mini dress with a sculpturally ruffled skirt (think Marilyn Monroe standing on a subway grate) or a white column gown with a split side and sparkling accents. Other highlights of the season included a golden-yellow gown with sleeves that ended in a cape; and the floaty chiffon gowns in colors like pink, lavender, and fuchsia.

To introduce Olivier Theyskens’s first collection for Azzaro, the house gave the stage to Belgian musician Sylvie Kreusch and film director Lukas Dhont. The presentation manifested in the form of a short film accompanied by SEEDY TRICKS, where the rhythmic pounding of drums and performance by Kreusch revealed a sequence of new silhouettes. Looks like a gold textured dress that buttoned down the front and a silver blazer with a plunging neckline were shown in front of a single spotlight and a curtained stage. Theyskens also reimagined the Azzaro’s signature three-ring motif, appearing on designs like a black gown with glittery silver embellishments that wrapped around the body.