With New York Fashion Week off to a start, we’re looking at the brands debuting their Fall/Winter 2021 collections. Here, you’ll find details on the latest from Christian Cowan, Gabriela Hearst, Claudia Li, and Jason Wu.
Courtesy of Christian Cowan.
Christian Cowan’s Fall/Winter 2021 designs were introduced through a film directed by Matthew Frost titled A Fashion Thing. Shot in the Pierre Hotel, a cast of glamorous characters (including names like Paris Hilton, Justine Skye, Aquaria, Jari Jones,and Chloe Fineman)were captured throughout the iconic building wearing the house’s extravagant new designs, including pieces like a glittering silver mini dress with a keyhole cutout in the front, a tightly tailored military-style coat with embellished gold sleeves, and a fluffy statement coat in black and white. Highlighting a collaboration with razr, the film alluded to the wonders of technology amid a time when we’ve all been forced to rethink our daily lives, simultaneously projecting the post-pandemic world as a return of the roaring 20s. The collection looked forward to the joyous times to come filled, once again, with extraordinary nights out spent wearing fabulous clothing through a fun-loving comedic lens and no shortage of sparkles, drapery, plunging cuts, and feathers,
Courtesy of Gabriela Hearst.
A hazy digital runway show captured by Alexandre de Betak introduced Gabriela Hearst’s latest designs, which were inspired by Saint Hildegard of Bingen. A composer, philosopher, botanist, and poet—just to name a few of her talents—Hildegard (who was born in 1098) was a Renaissance woman long before the period emerged. The collection imbued compassionate elegance and historical beauty, honoring the saint whose recognition would have been equal to that received by names like Leonardo da Vinci had she been a man. Comfortably modest silhouettes like long dresses with simple cuts and skirts that floated just above the ankles were in a palette of neutrals. Nature studies drawn by the designer’s twelve-year-old daughter were imagined as floral prints, knitted as dimensional appliqués, and transformed into Swiss lace and leather macrame designs. Collection highlights included a simple long-sleeved gown in black silk layered over wide-legged white trousers, a double-breasted trench coat with bows on the shoulders cinched at the waist with a belt, and a knit skirt and sweater covered in crocheted flowers.
Courtesy of Claudia Li.
Claudia Li’s “Homecoming” collection was a nostalgic ode to the designer’s return home to Auckland, New Zealand, drawing on 1980s fashion from Li’s teen years. Dreamy, dramatic silhouettes looked to the decade’s casual and formal styles, seen in elements like puff sleeves, big skirts with ruffles, slouchy shoulders, and oversized neck bows. Electric hues like blue, pink, red, and yellow were accompanied by more subtle tones including a muted purple, navy, and white. Thoughtful, deliberate details were applied to each garment, like a coat with jeweled embroidery; wide-legged trousers with an opposing-colored seam down the front, and a skirt with a dual-length hem and bi-colored prints. Standout looks like a voluminous blue 1980s prom-style dress with a full skirt and a matching skirt and suit jacket were each styled with chunky combat boots and flowery statement headbands and earrings, which were made in collaboration with Fruita.
Courtesy of Jason Wu.
Jason Wu’s influences for the Fall/Winter 2021 season brought us a collection embodying the designer’s personality and interests. Wu looked to the Americana scene from his New England school days, combined with his love of food for this selection of long, airy silhouettes and spirited prints. With access to Coca-Cola’s complete archives, prints and patterns were utilized as a means of exploring America’s diverse amalgamation of cultures—encompassed in prints like a variation on the Coca-Cola logo, several florals, and a suite of abstracted prints. We saw a selection of business casual styles that upheld a certain timelessness in their shape and form, including favorites like a pairing of high-waisted trousers with a striped sweater; a long jumper dress in a red, white, and blue houndstooth layered over an opposing printed turtleneck; and a flowy high-necked dress in a navy and goldenrod print, paired with white booties.
