Haute Couture FW23 Collections
Paris Couture Week is well underway in the City of Lights, and Whitewall is bringing you front and center for ravishing Haute Couture FW23 shows from Schiaparelli, Georges Hobeika, Tamara Ralph, Giambattista Valli, Elie Saab, and Viktor & Rolf.
Courtesy of Schiaparelli.
Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli Creative Director Daniel Roseberry celebrated fashion and creativity in a whimsical, elegant state with the Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2023/24 collection. Immaculately designed pieces embodied the highest levels of artisanal skill and imagination. Roseberry presented a breathtaking show of surreal mix-and-match garments to be worn with pure joy, and adored for a lifetime. In true Schiaparelli form, the designer closely tied the new collection to inspiring art and artists, embellishing a stretch silk body stocking with the celestial brush strokes of painter Lucian Freud, applying the mosaic-like broke-mirror motif of artist Jack Whitten to a stretch skirt and cardigan, and infusing the Nouveau realism of Yves Klein in dreamlike monochrome blue fabric and adornments. Sensual pieces such as a golden-hued laced corset, a hypnotic high-waisted skirt of vibrantly colored glass tubes, a cardigan of gilded wooden beads, and an asymmetrical glass-beaded miniskirt rejoiced in the inherent fantasy of life on earth that Roseberry encourages us to boldly tailor for ourselves.
Courtesy of Georges Hobeika.
Georges Hobeika
“A Dream” was the overarching theme of the glittering Georges Hobeika Couture Fall 2023 collection. Creative Directors Georges and Jad Hobeika enveloped the audience in a kaleidoscope of gleaming fabrics, embroideries in motion, and a sweetly youthful pastel color palette. Gentle hues of lilac, baby pink, gray, sunshine yellow, and turquoise ebbed and flowed across awe-inspiring garments made of duchess satin, crepe chiffon, velvet, silk, and satin—traced in swirling pearls and feathers. Ethereal, crystal-bearing headdresses led the eye to a myriad of beaded gowns patterned after the perfect symmetry found in mother nature, some complete with long, graceful gloves. Swirling leaf and floral embroidery bloomed optimistically across loose, free-flowing caftans, cropped evening jackets, and chic, ankle-grazing skirts. Standout accessories such as petite tulip belts, and dragonflies on earrings as well as cloud-high platform footwear, left us utterly enchanted.
Courtesy of Tamara Ralph.
Tamara Ralph
After 14 dazzling years designing for Couture Week in Paris, Tamara Ralph presented for the first time her very own couture collection for the Fall/Winter 2023/24 season under her new eponymous brand. With the passions and adventures of the modern heroine in mind, Ralph presented a dynamic show of both fierce and delicate forms and fabrics, invoking the enduring art and power of couture. Worn with confidence and serene femininity were majestic gowns and floor-grazing capes boasting feathers, fringe, sculptural roses, and chainmail detailing. Body-hugging suits, tiered skirts, and silk dresses evoked femme fatales for the 21st century. Tactile fabrics such as velvet, chiffon, silk taffeta, and crepe came to life in romantic shades of pink, pearl, mint green, and raspberry, often set against dramatic ebony. Waves of metallic threads beamed like lightning draped across the body, while billowing robes of blue or pink trailed behind each woman like potent, poetic stardust.
Courtesy of Giambattista Valli.
Giambattista Valli
Giambattista Valli’s n°25 Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2023 collection was a taut, edgy interpretation of the legendary art form. A rose-colored strapless silk duchess dress appeared offbeat and voluminous, framing the tattoos across the model’s shoulder and neck with a sweetheart, crystal chevron ruffled neckline. A verdant strapless silk taffeta garment displayed a mastery of draping; the thigh-bearing minidress was surrounded by volumes of protective, floor-grazing fabric, brought together at the waist by a simple black bow. High-waisted lace pants—reaching up to the bust—glistened with onyx pearls, and was beautifully paired with a white silk chiffon shirt which gave way to an extended cape. A silk chiffon dress embellished with larger-than-life bows was a vision in peaceful gray, while the “Pink Flamingo” dress was astounding in sleek ostrich feathers and silk chiffon. The icing on the cake was a bralette of handmade magnolias, a skilled work of art in silk crepe and organza, paired memorably with the “Cedar and Gold” tulle skirt in a graduated harlequin pattern, which shone with a luster matched only by the sun.
Photo by Filippo Fior, courtesy of Elie Saab.
Elie Saab
“A Glamour of Yore,” the Elie Saab Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023/24 collection exuded the delicate balance of courage and grace inherent in legendary females. Iconic contemporary actresses in roles portraying complex, medieval heroines—such as Angelina Jolie in Maleficent, Cate Blanchet in Elizabeth, and Marion Cotillard in Macbeth—provided fertile ground for the mysterious and captivating new collection. Amorous roses and branches twisted across figure-hugging suit jackets, as well as dramatic and airy gowns, in a cascade of vital femininity. Princess-like veils in blush and garnet—that also wrapped sensuously around the arms—appeared both gothic and contemporary, paired with striking gowns of shimmering, geometric embroidery. Slivers of skin peeked under gold-leafed capes, beneath sheer crystallized crepe, beside soft feathers and sequins. Patterns of regal gold bees and plush ebony roping mimicking an elusive black widow spider created an overwhelming spirit of prosperity and trust in our boundless universe.
Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture FW23
The Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023 “Embodiment” collection was an ode to the romantic surrealism and streamlined baroque design of the house in the stunning form of bathing suits. In hues of luxe black, champagne pink, pineapple yellow, and icy blue, bikinis and one-piece suits were presented as otherworldly works of jubilant art. A crochet-patterned suit with fringe outlines was paired with a ruffled and cropped cardigan which culminated in gloves borrowed from eveningwear. Crepe, organza, and satin duchesse found sculptural new forms for summer soirees. Bows decorated the deep-V of a distinctive one-piece, and a fantastical hooded robe in black and white ruffles kept the mystery alive over an equally graphic yet darling bathing suit. Unapologetic phrases such as “I wish you well,” “Dream on,” and simply “No,” were spread in enormous, 3-D fashion across suits as supreme slogans for contemporary goddesses everywhere.
