Under the dark night sky of Mumbai, vibrant hues of orange, pink, green, and gold glowed from the Dior Fall 2023 show last night. In front of the historic Gateway of India monument, the maison hosted its latest runway presentation full of looks that celebrate Indian craft and fashion. In the crowd, a star-studded group full of Bollywood icons—like Rekha, Sonam Kapoor, and Anushka Sharma—joined other creatives and changemakers from around the globe to see Maria Grazia Chiuri‘s gorgeous tribute to the South Asian country and its remarkable commitment to craft.
For Fall 2023, Chiuri aimed to express the feelings and emotions that can connect us to a foreign country and its culture—this time, namely India. Chiuri’s relationship with the country is of particular importance to her work with Dior, as she’s collaborated with the Mumbai-based Chanakya ateliers and its non-profit Chanakya School of Craft for years.
Photo by Niveditaa Gupta, courtesy of Dior.
Under the artistic direction of Karishma Swali and known for its international embroidery projects, including countless backdrops for Dior shows, the organization emphasizes craft done by hand and the transmission of artisanal education and technique. In Fall 2023, we saw Chanakya and Dior’s collaborative savoir-faire excellence come to light once more, and this time, through garments inspired by traditional ones from their homeland.
Courtesy of Dior.
Instead of recreating traditional Indian saris, sarongs, lungis, or kurtis in Dior form, Chiuri reimagined their recognizable cuts and colors through contemporary silhouettes and fabrics. Paying homage to Marc Bohan and his 30-year run at Dior, empire waist gowns, wrap dresses, and wrap skirts paired with button-down tops in the same color or pattern were seen in a color-blocking sequence of silks—from green and yellow to pink and purple; evening coats and skirts were inspired by the cuts and shapes of saris, representing the transcendental and legendary impact of fashion in India and beyond; kantha-like coats, trenches, bolero jackets, and long blazers were oversized, elegant, and sharp in shape; matching lightweight tie-dye denim pants and jackets were seen awash in swirls of pink and white; and oversized tops with band collars were paired with trim trousers—both adorned in luxurious prints and embroidered sequins and beads that make up nature-based scenes and landscapes.
Courtesy of Dior.
Accessories also hit a special high note, with pearl necklaces doubled up and layered; totes and handbags matching prints on garments; and functional shoes—from sandals and thongs to wrap-up flats—seen in an array of colors and materials.
Courtesy of Dior.
Overall, what felt special about Dior’s Fall 2023 collection is at once both simple and complex. It evoked an honest tribute to a vibrant culture that has long since been in the shadows, yet one that still wrestles with an inequitable exchange. Here, spirited Indian embroidery is no longer just a source of inspiration, it’s a source of pride, peace, and continued trade employment with its long-standing collaboration with Chanakya, too. By not undermining India’s vast craft and fashion scene, and not mining inspiration from a place where it’s done best, the Dior Fall 2023 collection gives back to India in ways that can provide for a better today, tomorrow, and beyond.
Courtesy of Dior.
