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This was Jil Sander’s third season back with her eponymous brand, and the German designer’s spring/summer collection is a confident marriage of streetwear shapes with bold colors.
Futuristic tailored pieces in soft creams were accented by pops of color, from a glimpse on the edge of a cuff to a suit jacket in glowing red. In accompaniment were double-breasted jackets and coats paired with oversized bermuda shorts that gave the collection a more youthful spirit that softened the clinical tailoring.
Sander hit a dud note when it came to the glossy, box-shaped leather jackets, but quickly made up for it with her loose, pleated silhouettes and subtle patterns. The designer is best known for her knack at keeping minimalism exciting and this season is no exception.
Reinterpreted men’s sportswear has surfaced time and time again this season, and Ferragamo’s spring/summer 2014 collection was a rhythmic and deconstructed take on it. Creative director Massimiliano Giornetti employed a color palette of cobalt, cactus green, cinnamon, marine blue, red, and chalk to tailored jackets, and (as seen at Jil Sander) Bermuda-length shorts.
The paper-like summer suits were made from cool, waxed cotton, and were matched with quilted blousons, and crisp button-up shirts. Elasticated waists and sleeveless structured jackets injected the sporty feel to the collection, while folded hems and concealed buttons added a modern twist to the more traditional tailoring.
To top it all off, oversized numerals were stitched on to light knitwear in block colors, adding a final touch of sporting dynamism to the already strong line.
Belstaff, best known for its motorcycle heritage, has entered into a second life since its relaunch two years ago, having grown into a global, luxury outfit with flagships across the world. For this season however, the brand has turned to its vast archive dating back from the 1930s for inspiration.
Martin Cooper, the man behind the label’s new vision, introduced tangerine colored anoraks and trenches in waxed cotton, shoulder padded biker jackets and even a leather, belted racing suit (a onesie, in other words) in military green. The military vibe was almost oo much when it came to the painted camouflage jackets, however ribbed sweaters in petrol blue and burnt orange balanced out the collection.
Cooper described the new collection as “a balance between authenticity and adventure,” and with high tech fabrics set against suedes and corrugated denim, not to mention the utilitarian outerwear, Belstaff is doing a good job at reinventing the classics.