Skip to content
subscribe
Account
SEARCH

Categories

LASTEST

Nemozena

Loewe, Maison Margiela, Nemozena: PFW SS19

Eliza Jordan

28 September 2018

We’re continuing our look at Paris Fashion Week, focused on new Spring/Summer 2019 collections from brands like Loewe, Maison Margiela, and Nemozena.

Dynamic and bright, flouncy and streamlined, Loewe’s Spring/Summer 2019 collection had us guessing what was missing. At the Maison de I’UNESCO, in restored mid-century rooms, models entered through a recreated façade of the experimental London-based gallery SIGNALS, open from 1964–1966. There, designer Jonathan Anderson sourced inspiration for the new line from contemporary art and early Modernism. Artist Lara Favaretto staged her spinning car wash brushes, providing the perfect setting for the various textures that accompanied: rustic woven baskets by LOEWE Craft Prize finalist Joe Hogan placed around the room; record players holding ceramics by Ryoji Koi; and a room full of soap bubbles. As models walked, we saw various volumes and oddly satisfying balances between fabrics and cuts—like ruched tops, fisherman sweaters, bell sleeves, and tops with takeover ostrich feather detailing. Hogan’s bags complemented several looks—the Puzzle bag appeared in woven calfskin and the Gate bag in thatched straw. Other accessories that demanded attention were the Kite bag, cascading with leather fringe, and large sunglasses with leather and silver stem tassels.

LOEWE

Courtesy of LOEWE.

Maison Margiela’s moody new “Co-ed” collection had a few mysterious twists. Blue latex pants, shiny gold shoes, black top hats, and more bold details were seen trailing down a polished concrete runway floor, while an onslaught of gender-bending looks followed. The collection, an ode to authenticity, also paid homage to the defiant new generation of today, screaming, “Wear whatever you want! Be whoever you want!” And on the runway, we saw and felt just that, loving the transformative deconstruction and use of unique materials for a big middle finger to binary stigmatisms. Skirts mutated into capes, lace shift dresses were bonded with transparent georgette, and slits, slashes, panels, cuffs, and bows drew our eyes from one to the next. A sheer force, the new collection proposed an inventive wardrobe for a new approach to identity.

Nemozena’s “Reversible” capsule collection was presented as an installation at the Musée Nissim de Camondo alongside the “Aglow” exhibition outside. The collection full of pieces that you can wear inside-out, pieces like tops, dresses, and jackets were seen with colorful patterns joined by color-blocking. Short navy blue dresses had capes, a long tan trench coat had only one full-length side, and button-down long-sleeved tops had vertical striped on one side with horizontal stripes on the other. While there were plenty of staple pieces and subdued colors in the collection, we made note of a sweet pattern—built with shapes of all sizes and colors—that donned several looks, including a sleeveless, tiered ruffle dress.

LOEWE

Courtesy of LOEWE.

 

 

Maison Margiela.

Courtesy of Maison Margiela.

SAME AS TODAY

FURTHER READING

Louis Fratino Finds Power in Images of What We Love

Louis Fratino spoke with Whitewall about keeping the studio a space free from fear of failure.

The View at The Palm Opens in Dubai with Human-Centric Purpose

Whitewall spoke with John Bricker of Gensler about The View at The Palm in Dubai.

The BMW Neue Klasse Looks to an All-Electric Future

The BMW Neue Klasse is a statement piece for a new era: design language that references classic BMW for its soon-to-be all-electric lineup.

Maison Margiela’s Bewitching Artisanal Collection Debuts Under a Full Moon

With Creative Director John Galliano at the helm, Maison Margiela’s bewitching runway show beckoned under the historic Pont Alexandre III.

6 Design Debuts to Look Forward to During Milan Design Week from Alessi, Loewe, and More

Ahead of the week of Milan Design Week, we’re introducing new collections and immersive exhibitions by internationally renowned design brands.

SUBSCRIBE TO MAGAZINE

Kelly Wearstler

THE WINTER EXPERIENCE ISSUE
2023

Subscribe

SUBSCRIBE TO NEWSLETTER

Go inside the worlds of Art, Fashion, Design and Lifestyle.

READ THIS NEXT

With Creative Director John Galliano at the helm, Maison Margiela’s bewitching runway show beckoned under the historic Pont Alexandre III.
Ahead of the week of Milan Design Week, we’re introducing new collections and immersive exhibitions by internationally renowned design brands.

SUBSCRIBE TO NEWSLETTER

Go inside the worlds
of Art, Fashion, Design,
and Lifestyle.