As digital fashion presentations continue to stand in for many live shows, LOEWE prevails in creativity. Within a box, the house’s Creative Director Jonathan Anderson ensured that those who received the special package were equipped with all that was needed to digest his dream behind Spring/Summer 2021. For his second show-in-a-box concept, Anderson delivered elements neatly organized to be assembled at home, with an accompanying “Show-on-the-Wall” theme.
Creatively directed by Anderson and M/M (Paris), Spring/Summer 2021 features an exciting collaboration with the British artist Anthea Hamilton. As the new garments were dressed on mannequins at the Hôtel du Grand Veneur (an in-person element Anderson picked back up after last season), Hamilton’s work served as an eye-catching backdrop. Her large-scale works were translated into wallpaper pieces, such as St Jeanne Wavy Boots w. Gazanias and Snails, which featured a collage of a boot and flower motif.
At home and inside the LOEWE box were a series of tools that acted as an artist’s portfolio: folded posters; a canvas bucket bag; a catalogue raisonné; and a wallpaper kit that included a roll of wallpaper designed by Hamilton, glue, a wide smoothing brush, scissors, and a ceramic dish infused with a Beetroot scent. Also included were 16 posters from the collection and looks from the house—one of which was screen-printed with an image by legendary photographer Steven Meisel, once published in 1999 in Vogue Italia.
“The Show-on-the-Wall is derived from the idea that the SS21 Women’s collection was created remotely and rethinks how we contextualize fashion in this moment,” said Anderson. “While we are in a situation where travel is restricted, we invite the viewer to interact and be creative.”
Anderson also presented online content to enrich the experience, via social media, including videos explaining the collection, concept, and artists involved. Music producer Adam Bainbridge (also known as KINDNESS) introduces Thomas Tallis’s “Spem in Alium”—the soundtrack behind the collection’s debut—that was mixed with an original composition from The Tallis Scholars, and contributions from Mathis Picard, Robyn, and Vuyo Sotashe.
The brand’s latest documentary also debuted, Akimbo Stylee by Ayo Akingbade on Hamilton, filmed in the artist’s Stockwell studio, at Open School East, Margate where she is the artist in residence, and at her gallery Thomas Dane Gallery. LOEWE also commissioned an art film created by Hilary Lloyd entitled Du Samedi au Mardi that features footage and interviews on the set of the SS21 photoshoot. To conclude, Anderson caught up with friend of the house, model Kaia Gerber, to talk about the new collection.
The latest LOEWE pieces, though, were the true stars. Acting as testaments to Anderson’s love of craft were garments, bags, shoes, and sunglasses that harnessed substantial design execution. Trousers and tops with ballooning pantlegs and sleeves were tapered with structured blazers; a sheer panel of fabric was draped over the bottom of a sleek mini bell dresses, a black dress featured a mid-section of fabric florals arranged in a lattice pattern across the midriff, and one sweet pink set featured Hamilton’s boot and flower motif print with a matching pink belt at its center and new white heels below.
Accessories were strong, with new offerings in bundles. Bags in various shades were seen in collections, and in an array of sizes—like brown leather, with straps twisted in bow-like designs across the front; purple bucket bags, ranging from large to micro; and in periwinkle blue, with side-straps that cinched the opening closed. New shoes ranged from slides with sophisticated woven tops, heels with flaps of brown or purple leather folded over the backs, and mules with hole openings. And because one day soon they are sure to come, sunglasses anchored with the LOEWE logo on its sides keep us optimistic for the bright days ahead.