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MFW Men’s SS20: Ermenegildo Zegna XXX, Giuseppe Zanotti, and Dolce & Gabbana

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Ermenegildo Zegna XXX kicked off Milan’s Fashion Week last Friday with a runway unfolding beyond the city limits, below the extremely high ceilings of an immense industrial building that once hosted Area Falck. The site is soon to be redesigned into a hub for health and science gaining a new relationship with the city. It was in this same spirit that the Spring/Summer 2020 collection was presented. With “#UseTheExisting,” the brand celebrated once again a commitment to “Reuse and reinvent the existing, getting progressive fabrics out of discarded ones, translating traditional techniques into innovative lifetime tailoring, turning an abandoned place into an area,” Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori explained.

The collection was an ode to industrial elegance, enhancing the precision of lines of pragmatic suits, and the weightlessness of the sartorial construction with blousons, shirts, and polo-shirts worn with matching trousers. Firm yet extremely light fabrics were used with mastery to create neat silhouettes. Adding depth to materials and giving tempo to surfaces were flattened crinkles, photo-prints of graphic assemblages, and progressive stripe patterns creating a gestural, pictorial feel. In line with the functional mood of the space, accessories were pragmatic, as well.

A fresh take on the concept of classic elegance, Giuseppe Zanotti Men’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection introduced intriguing chromatic combinations and textures, giving new life to some of their best-selling pieces. Shoes become personal and playful accessories, customizable to one’s taste through initials or a reaction to UV light. With the new collection Zanotti’s sneaker selection grew larger, incorporating cutting-edge 3D materials to the Urchin and Blabber sneaker. A selection of metallics, printed snake-skin, baby blues, and blush colors dressed some of their classic pieces. Black suede loafers remained a must-have for the season, whether fully encrusted in crystals, embellished in metal studs, or covered in rich embroidery. A rubber sole was introduced, wearable day to night, with a double life  as slipper and shoe. Then again, crafted in sporty materials, vegetable-dyed, with hand-finished soles in a deep cherry color, the Chelsea Boot and the moccasin were reworked into contemporary styles. The result: a wide-ranging collection that goes beyond the usual confines of day and night, able to satisfy global tastes while staying true to its inherent soul.

Dolce & Gabbana presented their Spring/Summer 2020 collection, “Sicilian Tropical,” over the notes of an extended remix of Takagi & Ketra’s Jambo. The show venue was transformed into an indoor tropical garden, framing a leopard-print runway full of a playful mix of prints, patterns, and materials. Elements from the ‘40s and ‘50s abounded, like pin-ups, tropical fruits, vintage cars, and an underlying Italian feel “all shaken up to maybe make something new,” as Stefano himself said.

Central pieces to the collection were tailored khakis, printed shirts, archival jackets, silky pajamas, and a duster reinvented as the new Vestaglia. With the collection the designers also introduced a new shoe shape: the NS1 sneaker. With a total of 119 looks Dolce & Gabbana’s latest collection presented a great variety of flavors and colors, shapes and forms, clothes ranging from the finest Italian-tailored suits reinvented to match the theme while keeping a classic feel, to more playful sports uniforms and bathing suits to appeal to the lively millennials. The broad range was skillfully amalgamated by Domenico and Stefano to create something indeed unexpected and captivating.

 

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THE SPRING ARTIST ISSUE
2023

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Whitewall highlights is favorite fashion collections, presentations, and shows—from new lines to artistic collaborations.
This season’s Milan Fashion Week united a mélange of internationally renowned designers, who took to unlikely venues like Italian tram stations to debut looks that were truly inspired. Below, we’ve compiled our personal favorites from Margiela, Moschino, Tod’s, Jil Sander, Gucci, and Marni.

SUBSCRIBE TO NEWSLETTER

Go inside the worlds
of Art, Fashion, Design,
and Lifestyle.