Yesterday marked the close of Milan Fashion Week, where fashion houses presented their new designs for the Fall/Winter 2022 season. Below, you’ll find details on the latest collections from Bottega Veneta, Versace, Jil Sander, Max Mara, and Marni.
Courtesy of Bottega Veneta.
An idea of “quiet power,” where extravagance meets utility, were the grounds on which Bottega Veneta conceived its Fall/Winter 2022 collection. Looking to harness a feeling over an aesthetic, the brand turned to artisanal craftsmanship, traditional techniques, and the importance of materials to conceive a collection meant to be lived in and move comfortably with its wearers. Silhouettes, though rooted in classics, chose to follow a “why not?” mentality, updating styles like A-line dresses and outerwear with bubbled shoulders straps and warped shapes that created a “C” effect. Leather was a mainstay, with the maison’s recognizable woven lattice seen making up handbags, footwear styles, and even skirts—like a look featuring boyfriend-style shirting made from supple yellow nubuck, tucked into an evergreen woven mini, and styled with a Pillow bag and pumps. Other standout styles were composed of varied textures and hues, like a party-ready slip dress in sequins and tulle ruffles, paired with thigh-high boots, or a chevron suit with a tactile overcoat in hues of yellow, black, and green.
Courtesy of Versace.
New from Versace, an energetically punk feel was infused into the maison’s seductive allure, resulting in a collection fit for the regal rebel. Models were styled browless with a dark smoky eye or a black lip, taking the glossy red catwalk in looks that emitted a fearsome confidence. Elements rooted in ideas of a classic wardrobe were remixed and repurposed, resulting in striking proportions; blown up takes on prints like houndstooth and tweed; and an all-new feel to archetypal styles like pencil skirts and blazers. The bustier was central to the collection, seen across styles ranging from outerwear and dresses to tanks and t-shirts—like our favorite all-black look with wide-legged cargo pants and rectangular shades, or a pink and green dress with un-hemmed fringe at the neckline. More daring styles were juxtaposed by debonaire details, and vice-versa—resulting in skirt sets with tees and chunky combat boots, cut-out gowns with corsetry and pearl chokers, and suiting styled with platforms and bold outerwear.
Courtesy of Jil Sander.
Jil Sander’s contemporary gaze and impeccable craftsmanship returned for the fall/winter 2022 season with a collection of sharp silhouettes made to channel the inner strength and conviction of the wearer. A soft palette in storybook hues like pale blue, daffodil yellow, lilac, and light green underscored a gentle elegance, which complimented the collection’s sculptural tailoring, clean lines, and varied dress silhouettes—both miniature and long. Making special each design were details like large square collars, intricate 3D cut-out materials, hand-drawn zodiac signs printed on silk jersey, and quilted Tuscan wool. These were exemplified in designs like a golden-hued floral gown; a double-breasted coat in camel that fell to the ankles; a soft yellow collarless quilted coat with an illustrated print; and a white skirt suit with a distinct, structured bell-shape.
Photo © Giovanni Giannoni, courtesy of Max Mara.
The widespread oeuvre of Dada-era creative Sophie Taeuber-Arp informed Max Mara’s Fall/Winter 2022 collection, “Modernist Magic.” In particular, the designs looked to Taeuber-Arp’s work King Stag, taking notes from her colors of choice, improvised costumes, and robotic marionettes for the suite of gracefully cozy looks with elongated proportions. A palette of neutrals with pops of tones like red and yellow and the occasional geometric print brought us styles like ultra-wide-legged trousers that brushed the floor, skinny turtlenecks in soft mohair, teddy bear coats, oversized puffers, and cozy balaclavas with nearly every look. Highlight looks included a pair of teddy joggers and a cropped trench that tied at the waist, styled with a black turtleneck and balaclava; a white turtleneck with quilted padding on the sleeves, paired with orange trousers and an oversized fuzzy belt bag; and a patterned knit sweater dress fitted through the bodice, with a floor-length skirt and long black gloves.
Courtesy of Marni.
Marni embraced a sentimentality that treated treasured objects as identity cards for their owners in a look at courage, time, and feelings. The concept of one wardrobe worn differently by everyone highlighted the importance of cherishing, mending, and re-wearing beloved items, which resulted in styles featuring a found or handmade feel—like oversized sweaters, shredded garments, pieces with long, dangling sleeves, spiky protrusions, and intentional statement stitching. The season’s suiting was entirely handmade by Attolini, including pieces like a gray chevron overcoat with a black velvet collar, or a black and white checked set in swinging proportions. Looks were styled in a sort of disheveled avant-garde, resulting in ensembles like a red knit set where the roles of top and bottom have been reversed; a ruched mermaid gown with worn over a t-shirt, styled with white square-toed shoes and knick-knacks woven into the model’s hair; and a layered look comprised of patchwork pants, a bleached pink leather overcoat, a cardigan and button-up, and a wire crown.
