As New York Fashion Week draws to a close, we’re already wistfully reflecting on the collections that moved us the most—from serious, moving presentations to shows full of humor and whimsy. Below, we’ve compiled some of the season’s most striking shows from designers including LUAR, Wiederhoeft, COS, Ronald van der Kemp, and LaQuan Smith.
Wiederhoeft Gets Back to Its Roots
Courtesy of Wiederhoeft.
Courtesy of Wiederhoeft.
Jackson Wiederhoeft spent the summer reflecting on his eponymous brand’s ethos. The result was a vulnerable three-act show called “Manifesto,” set to the mating call of the extinct Kauaʻi ʻōʻō bird. Onlookers could hear mother-of-pearl seashells rustle on the models’ white tulle dresses as they walked along the runway, debuting an ethereal new line of dramatic evening and bridal looks. The real star of the show, though, was Wiederhoeft’s corset program: the designer debuted a ready-to-wear version of his popular Rider corset in 68 sizes. Additionally, look number 16 featured a double-faced silk satin piece hand-dyed by Silver Oak Wines‘ 2020 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, complemented by a hand-beaded draped bust and poppy leaves. The show was followed by an afterparty at downtown hotspot KYU.
COS Unveils Earthy, Sophisticated Collection in An Industrial Warehouse
Courtesy of COS.
Courtesy of COS.
In a cavernous, industrial warehouse, COS unveiled its Autumn/Winter 2024 line—an assortment of unpretentious trouser suits and floor-length dresses. The label has prescribed a relaxed kind of luxury for the colder weather, from tactile cashmere layers to smooth leather jackets, shearling, and draped silk shirts. Tones were consistently earthy, ranging from a rich burgundy to pale brown. The show also debuted a ballet-inspired collection from the label’s new Atelier, replete with fluid silhouettes.
Ronald van der Kemp Honors 1980s-Era America
Courtesy of Ronald van der Kemp.
Courtesy of Ronald van der Kemp.
Dutch designer Ronald van der Kemp showcased 31 looks during his eponymous label’s presentation at New York Fashion Week yesterday, offering a glamorous, chaotic ode to ‘80s-era New York City. As models donned pieces with the American flag emblazoned across them, one couldn’t help but think of both the 9/11 anniversary and the upcoming election. The label’s new collection was strikingly contemporary in more ways than one: it also marked Ronald van der Kemp’s 10-year anniversary as a sustainable brand. Once again, the label used upcycled materials—even borrowing from their past collections—to create couture pieces. Exaggerated asymmetrical ruffles, comically large bows, and embellished bolero jackets all made appearances.
LaQuan Smith Offers a Dreamy, Animalistic Spring/Summer 2025 Collection
Laquan Smith, Spring 2025, New York City, September 9 2024
Laquan Smith, Spring 2025, New York City, September 9 2024
LaQuan Smith’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is a sensual affair, putting animalia motifs in conversation with feminine sexuality at every turn. Sheer textiles arrived in sexy lace bodysuits and silky tops wrapped around the neck, contrasted with the color palette of khaki, yellow, and snake print that defined other looks in the collection. Between the 50 looks he unveiled this season, Smith oscillated effortlessly between serious power suits and whimsical micro-mini dresses. The designer also partnered with Samsung Galaxy to debut a line of dreamy sleepwear ensembles, and Giuseppe Zanotti was the official footwear partner for the show, crafting six custom shoes to adorn the models.
LUAR Ups the Ante with “En Boca Quedó”
Courtesy of Luar and firstVIEW.
Courtesy of Luar and firstVIEW.
From the moment that Alex Consani burst onto the runway in a black bustier and sheer tights, it was clear that LUAR’s Spring/Summer 2025 show at Rockefeller Center was going to be a spectacle. The label was highly talked about last season for drawing Beyoncé out of a nine-year hiatus from New York Fashion Week; this time around, LUAR kept up the momentum and attracted Madonna, Ice Spice, Jenna Lyons, and Hari Nef.
Creative director Raul Lopez titled the 53-look collection “En Boca Quedó,” referencing a phrase commonly used in the Dominican Republic that translates to “I stay in your mouth”—or, as the show notes explain, “even after you’ve walked away, you know people will keep talking about you, good or bad.” With looks featuring everything from Italian-merino wool to a warped leopard print made out of pony hair, the collection’s title feels like a premonition.
LUAR also announced a groundbreaking partnership with JBW timed to New York Fashion Week, releasing Atmosphere—a striking timepiece featuring crystal embellishments and two lab-grown diamonds, available in 18-karat gold, silver, two-tone, and rose gold.
