A heavily packed space in Chelsea was the setting for Helmut Lang‘s fall/winter 2013-2014 showing. Amid flashbulbs and eager spectators, 40 models strode down a weaving runway to display the brands latest collection. Drawing inspiration from the “Picasso Black and White” exhibition that opened last fall at the Guggenheim Museum in New York, the collection, titled “Assemblage,” provided a contemporary take on cubist art. Contrasting the Picasso-inspired color scheme were healthy bursts of blue and blush tones. Black leather moto jackets trimmed with fur and loosely tailored, yet structurally crisp, suit jackets were added to give the collection a “sharp slouch.” Models also stepped down the runway in slouchy menswear-inspired jackets paired with tailored “stovepipe pants” to add an element of boyish charm.
Several of the collections standout pieces boasted an exceptional wealth of texture — from fabric framed by leather, to felt, wool, pony, and coated silk. The autumn collection undoubtedly relied on its heavy use of differing textures to add a one-of-a-kind quality to its already diverse tonal palette. One dress, which employed a fil-coupé technique, was made from over 125 pattern pieces — all of which were hand placed. Additionally, the designer’s desire to heavily use graphic shapes inspired several of the “cubist patterns” found throughout the collection.
All in all, careful interplay between silk, leather, and fur coupled with exciting and complex new techniques created a wonderfully rich collection that fearlessly incorporated some of the most notable trends of the season.
